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DIY Exo-Terra Glass Top

6.1K views 17 replies 5 participants last post by  Chris S  
#1 ·
How bad of an idea is it to create a glass top similar to the image below using silicone and 2 cm thick glass for a 24x18 exo-terra (bad defined as how likely is it for the glass contraption to come undone and rain shards down on my frogs). I might use some piece of plastic and silicone to help reinforce the area where the different pieces of glass join together.

How will not having the vent be at the very back of the tank affect ventilation?

Am I better off siliconing glass to the exo-terra screen lid?
Image


To preface this, I'm very unsatisfied with my jank glass top setup whose ventilation area is attached to the tank and the glass top with a lot of duct tape.

Thank you.
 
#9 ·
I just use egg crate to fill in the blank spaces, and silicone the mesh onto the egg crate.
How did you manage to cut the egg crates cleanly? That was my initial plan but the egg crate end up looking like an OSHA violation. For a false bottom it's fine since I highly doubt springtails and isopods are going to be impaling themselves, but I don't want to risk it with the frogs.
 
#2 ·
2 cm thick glass
Is this a typo? That's more than 3/4 inch.

Not sure about the design in the photo, but a really simple way to solve this is to use a piece of glass (tempered is best) for the front portion of the top and a window screen kit insert for the back portion that isn't covered by the glass. No duct tape needed (though I do sometimes put a little piece of clear Scotch tape on each side to make sure I don't knock it out of place).

For the record, I personally think the best way to handle top venting is to use pieces of acrylic placed over the stock screen top.
 
#3 ·
Is this a typo? That's more than 3/4 inch.
Yeah, that's a typo. I meant 2 mm thick, so very thin glass hence why I'd asked if it was a bad idea.
but a really simple way to solve this is to use a piece of glass (tempered is best) for the front portion of the top and a window screen kit insert for the back portion that isn't covered by the glass.
As I'm not in the states and don't have access to services like Amazon, I'll see if I can replicate this methodology in my neck of the woods. I'm not sure if I'll be able to find the correct type of frame that'll fit things perfectly.

For the record, I personally think the best way to handle top venting is to use pieces of acrylic placed over the stock screen top.
I'm personally not the biggest fan of the overcast look that the middle bar across the top of the exo-terra lid causes, but if I can't find any alternatives I guess I'll do what you did but with a piece of glass instead?
 
#10 ·
Silicone doesn't reliably bond to acrylic. Acrylic to acrylic joints are best (and easily) solvent welded with an actual acrylic cement -- search 'acrylic weld on' here for details. Not sure what would bond the screen to the acrylic though -- maybe gel super glue.
 
#11 · (Edited)
Silicone doesn't reliably bond to acrylic
Thanks for the heads up. I feel like I've managed to avoid a catastrophic error. But yeah, if I can't silicone the no-see-um mesh to acrylic then that kind of defeats the point. What's the active ingredient in superglue gel? Is it still cyanoacrylate or is superglue gel different from normal superglue? Recon something like the E-6000 would work?
 
#7 ·
Decided to go with a traditional glass top using 1x1cm solid acrylic bars to create a frame to hold the no-see-um mesh. I understand that acrylic tends to bend under vivarium conditions, but hopefully it's thick enough for that not to be an issue? Unfortunately the rods are only 30 cm long so I'll need to silicone them together and saw some pieces.

Thanks, everyone.