Well I just went ahead and tried it and it worked. I figured the outlets are at 120 so I should be ok. Hopefully I don't start a fire.

 

You should be ok here. The way you get yourself in trouble on stuff like this is to run big currents through long runs of lightweight wire. That's how you generate heat.

 

All of my lights are shop style lights and hard wired. Allows me to run more SJ cord if i need a longer run

 

You have just a wee bit more current going through a 120, than through a 12v. Make sure your splices are very secure. Ideally, twist-on connectors should be used, also known as wire nuts, wire connectors, cone connectors, or thimble connectors. You can get them at any hardware store.

 

I twisted them then sodered then taped it. I think I'm getting overly confident. I ordered one of those inkbird thermostats you have to wire yourself.

this one -->>https://www.amazon.ca/Inkbird-All-P...renheit/dp/B01IBK9I12/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1499744483&sr=8-3&keywords=inkbird

 

I twisted them then sodered then taped it

Next time, go with shrink wrap. Cheap and easy to use. Another hobby of mine is tinkering around with vacuum tube amplifiers where voltages top 500V and it's common to use shrink wrap there.

Obviously you need good connections, but the non-obvious fire risk is drawing too much current (amps) through too light or long of a wire (resistance), which consumes power and creates heat like a toaster. Higher voltage is actually more likely to help the situation by reducing the necessary current draw to power the light (power=current*voltage). It's why utility lines are transformed up to tens of thousands of volts for transmission.

But this is all academic. Your light is drawing hardly any amps and even the dinkiest extension cord is at least 16ga. Get some shrink wrap and enjoy your frogs!