The cracked cork mosaic/living drip wall/pond method...How to - Dendroboard
Dendroboard

Go Back   Dendroboard > Vivariums > Parts & Construction
Register Blogs FAQ Calendar Mark Forums Read Advertise

Support Our Sponsors
No Threads to Display.

facebook

Like Tree29Likes

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 08-19-2010, 10:39 PM
Dendro Dave's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 6,279
Thanks: 189
Thanked 631 Times in 431 Posts
Default The cracked cork mosaic/living drip wall/pond method...How to

Ok so I've been doing this method off and on in some tanks for the last few years without incorporating a pump/drip wall...and now I've started doing that. I've talked about the basic method on here lots of times but I don't think I've ever made a thread about how to do it so here goes...

Basic concept...
Silicone and/or foam pieces of cork in a pattern that makes it look as if its been "shattered". Keep the cracks between each piece around an inch or less. (pieces thicker then most cork tiles are best for holding moss) and then jamming exoterra forrest moss and/or sphagnum moss into the cracks. You can also add peat, coco bark, and other stuff. The idea is to keep this moist through misting or drip wall and allow living moss to take over the cracks, probably eventually the cork also. The cracks provide places to root plant cuttings. You can also foam/silicone in pots or pieces of cork tubes as planters.

2 choices- First you can just silicone pieces of cork right to the back glass, you can also incorporate pieces of drift wood into the design if you'd like. 2nd You can first silicone a coco mat or something like epiweb to the glass then silicone/foam cork into place over that. This may have the benefit of keeping more water in the actual wall and allow for a thinner dammed off drainage area (which I'll explain). Especially with the coco mat is probably not wise to add heavy drift wood directly to the mat as eventually the mat will pull away from the glass. You can cut the mat to go around drift wood pieces siliconed to the glass.

In my first tanks with no drip wall the drainage dam wasn't needed but now that I'm doing drip walls I needed something to keep the drip from saturating the entire substrate or at least getting it wetter then I wanted given the plants I'm using.

This basically consists of a dam around 2 inches high running the length of the drip wall at its base, usually filled with gravel. This is so the water runs straight through the wall and into the false bottom or leca/hydroton layer. This has the added benifit of decreasing the leaching of tannins into a pond area if your pond shares its reservoir of water with the false bottom as mine often do. If you do that and fill it from the pond area and don't over mist you wont get as much tannins in your water, nor as fast an accumulation.

Ideally you will plumb your drip wall in before adding the moss. It can be done after if you forget but it is harder to hide. For my drip walls I am using Tom's lifting pumps with the out put line going to a "T" at the top middle of the wall and 2 lines coming off the "T" with holes punched in them. Intake line is hidden in background and goes to pond section. If your pond is large enough you can use the Tom's prefilters to extend pump life and help prevent clogs. If not you can wrap the end of tube in some kind of filter material and rubber band it, glue it into place...whatever. Basically you just want to prevent large particles from entering the pump.

Ok on to the pics...I think these are pretty self explanatory after the info I've just given but if there are any questions, fire away. I did add some further comments though.

20H, Has a tree fern tile siliconed into place with small fern and moss growing meant to spread through the background

This one clearly shows the plactic strip used as a drip wall dam. Its a lil to short in middle, I'll have to fix it. Basically you just want to slope the substrate up from that towards the center of the tank so it isn't visible. In this pic its a 10gal, and I used a coco mat on the back glass first, so I may be able to get away with piling the substrate right up against the drip wall since most of the water will run down the back glass and coco mat and only a small/slow amount will wick into the main substrate. Drip wall is run on timer and usually just enough to keep the wall moist, not soaked.

This pic also shows pretty clearly how I do my ponds usually. Unless it is a large pond in a large tank I don't see much point in completely separating it from the false bottom especially since doing it this way greatly slows down evaporation and how often you have to add water to the system. It may look sealed off but water will run or wick through to fill the pond. If I actually managed to completely seal it without trying I'll poke holes through the foam base under the shore so water flows into the pond.

Unfortuately the only old tank I still had running using the basic method was an overgrown 10gal where the plants had mostly blocked light from hitting the background so I didn't have good growth, plus with no drip wall without frequent misting it dried out. Here is a new hex that is starting to grow in and if you use your imagination you should be able to get an idea of the potential effect (It should eventually be a solid mass of green except for some visible cork and all the flowers from plant types I used)....

I did not use the full drainage dam idea here hence the extra tannin load and rapid rate of tanning leaching. I did put extra gravel around the edges under the drip wall but it wasn't enough. This tank is currently being completely flushed several times and large amount of activated charcoal used to clear the tannins to an acceptable level.

Please keep in mind that all these tanks are new, and only seeded with small moss samples and not fully planted at best...LoL they will be awsome...eventually

Questions?...Comments?
Jeremiah, zth8992, A.Wilko and 3 others like this.
__________________
Everything I've ever written is/was just my opinion!
Reply With Quote
The Following 7 Users Say Thank You to Dendro Dave For This Useful Post:
Boondoggle (01-04-2011), Christopher Cunningham (12-23-2015), FrogFever (01-06-2012), oneshot (01-04-2011), RMB (08-21-2010), SDRiding (04-05-2013), ZenMonkey (11-19-2014)
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 08-20-2010, 12:21 AM
bobzarry's Avatar
Dedicated Supporter
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: NJ
Posts: 413
Thanks: 11
Thanked 21 Times in 19 Posts
Default Re: The cracked cork mosaic/living drip wall/pond method...How to

Dave if you ask yourself honestly, you will know that your not happy with those results. You should pack that whole thing up and ship over to me so that I can hide that shameful exhibit from you.
Reply With Quote
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 08-20-2010, 11:18 PM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 88
Thanks: 2
Thanked 8 Times in 7 Posts
Default Re: The cracked cork mosaic/living drip wall/pond method...How to

Very cool! Do you have to do it as a drip wall for the moss to grow? I was planning to try to set up some sort of recycling rain system for afternoon showers, but wasn't planning to have any other water features in my viv (20H vert). I have a pile of cork bark that I bought at the aquarium shop that I think would look pretty cool like this.
Reply With Quote
 
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 08-20-2010, 11:21 PM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 88
Thanks: 2
Thanked 8 Times in 7 Posts
Default Re: The cracked cork mosaic/living drip wall/pond method...How to

Can I just attach broms directly to the cork bark with this method, or would I need to embed some pots too? (sorry for the newbie questions... never done a viv before)
Reply With Quote
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 08-21-2010, 12:56 AM
Dendro Dave's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 6,279
Thanks: 189
Thanked 631 Times in 431 Posts
Default Re: The cracked cork mosaic/living drip wall/pond method...How to

You don't have to have a drip wall but I think it is best or else you have to mist frequently and/or have your tank so sealed up that there is very little air flow and the glass will likely be fogged all the time which I don't like. If you are going to have some kind of rain bar, depending on the way you do it you could have part of the drip happen over the back wall which would basically have the same effect as a drip wall. I word of caution with rain systems though...You can only run them for a very short time without saturating the tank. A hand mister or misting system takes a small amount of water to do its job. A rain bar will probably dump a much higher volume of water in the same time period a mister would. So without some drainage system set up and a really well draining substrate it is easy to over saturate your tank.

As for broms depending on the species some may be best mounted in pots or planted into the moss cracks rather then mounting them directly to the cork because unless you pump a lot of water through your drip wall the cork surface in many places will still be dry or just barely damp at least until the tank grows in and moss and stuff cover everything then the water can wick into the cork from all those things more readily. If you mount directly to the cork it might be worth wrapping the roots in some sphagnum moss to hold enough moisture.
__________________
Everything I've ever written is/was just my opinion!
Reply With Quote
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 08-21-2010, 01:20 AM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 88
Thanks: 2
Thanked 8 Times in 7 Posts
Default Re: The cracked cork mosaic/living drip wall/pond method...How to

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dendro Dave View Post
I word of caution with rain systems though...You can only run them for a very short time without saturating the tank. A hand mister or misting system takes a small amount of water to do its job. A rain bar will probably dump a much higher volume of water in the same time period a mister would. So without some drainage system set up and a really well draining substrate it is easy to over saturate your tank.
Thanks for the advice, Dave. My plan has been to put a bulkhead in the "bottom" of the viv (end of the 20H tank) and use a 10-gallon sump down in the stand below the viv, so once the water got through the substrate it'd simply drain down into the sump immediately (leaving 1/4" or so of standing water in the bottom, unless i put a standpipe on the bulkhead and then however tall the standpipe was). I come from an aquaria rather than herp background, so this sort of appeals to me .

I don't want to hijack your thread, so I guess I'll start another on fast-draining substrates .
Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to gbeauvin For This Useful Post:
Polypodium (01-03-2014)
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 01-04-2011, 04:07 AM
Dendro Dave's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 6,279
Thanks: 189
Thanked 631 Times in 431 Posts
Default Re: The cracked cork mosaic/living drip wall/pond method...How to

Ok a member PM'd me recently asking about how I did drip walls and wanted me to post the info, so I'm just going to quote it here as an addition to the info already given...the crappy blueprint might be especially helpful. If there are any questions feel free to ask especially since I'm not including the OP's PMs some of the info may seem out of context, but I'm lazy so here ya go...


Quote:
Originally Posted by Dendro Dave
Ok to be honest I'm having a little trouble following and not sure on some of what you're asking. I'll give it a shot... OK one of the pics has a view of a clear plastic divider I siliconed into place on the false bottom top about an inch away from the back wall. This one, its clear so it is a bit hard to see...

Basically you just fill in that gap with gravel, and slope the substrate up a bit from that point so it isn't visible, also using plants, rocks, wood to hide it since it is only about an inch wide its pretty easy to hide and you won't see a 1 inch strip of gravel running the length of the back in the viv. Really if a little shows and you use nice gravel it is fine, just looks natural.

For the Dam...
Whatever you can find that will work, plastic, glass, just something that will stand up to being buried. Yes, the dripwall water is shared with the drainage layer or false bottom. Yes If I understand correctly you will need a second pump to run a waterfall...probably regardless of whether or not the pond/waterfall part shares its water with the false bottom because the Tom's pumps are so low flow, they are only good for running one feature each without a complicated series of valves and making sure everything is level or sloped just right...to much hassle. I would not bother trying to separate the pond and/or waterfall water reservoir from the false bottom in smaller tanks because evaporation will happen so fast you'll constantly be topping off the pond or waterfall. The shared method allows you to go much longer between top offs. In a large viv with a deep wate rfeature it can be worth separating them so the water stays clear and everything looks much nicer, but not in small tanks IMO. Not sure what you are saying or refering to about the "4 or 5 inches is quite a bit of space" statement.

Here is a diagram of a side view that should pretty much serve as a how-to in and of itself .....


Eh I can't make the pic bigger...hard to see but there is a purple line there as the "Dam", rest still looks readable/visible I think. The output line will be really short, since it is just going from the pump sitting on tank top or hanging on back outside glass to the top of the drip wall where the "T" is. so the output line goes to the T, then on the 2 parts of the T left over you attach a section of line roughly half as long as the drip wall, so the 2 together cover the entire length of the wall. Drill little holes, or melt them into the line ever 2-4 inches probably...try to do only just enough holes so that the water will still spread enough from the point it enters the wall to keep everything moist. I say drill or melt because the airline almost seems to reseal itself when you just poke holes in it. Hope this helps, let me know if further questions
waterbed fred and grackle like this.
__________________
Everything I've ever written is/was just my opinion!
Reply With Quote
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Dendro Dave For This Useful Post:
Judy S (01-04-2011), waterbed fred (06-16-2016)
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 01-04-2011, 02:21 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Rochester MN
Posts: 134
Thanks: 7
Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts
Default Re: The cracked cork mosaic/living drip wall/pond method...How to

Great diagram dave. A couple real nice plants to cover that gravel that would do well with the moisture, crypt lucens, anubias nana petite, anubias nana, anubias cofefolia.
Reply With Quote
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 10-14-2011, 02:19 AM
Okapi's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Ky
Posts: 1,213
Thanks: 150
Thanked 136 Times in 101 Posts
Default Re: The cracked cork mosaic/living drip wall/pond method...How to

Bumping this up so newer froggers can see
Reply With Quote
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 11-03-2011, 01:20 AM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Lewisburg, West Virginia
Posts: 39
Thanks: 8
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default Re: The cracked cork mosaic/living drip wall/pond method...How to

So this may sounds like a stupid question. I am currently working on an ExoTerra terrarium. I really want to do this cracked cork bark mosaic style as a background. I have already covered the back wall with black silicone. I have begun to break some cork bark into the pieces that I want, and will soon be placing them onto the back, and one of the walls, of my terrarium. I don't want to try and grow live moss, but I really like the look of the second picture. So, how exactly do you get the sphagnum moss to stick between the pieces of cork bark? Do I stick it to wet silicone on the background?
Reply With Quote
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 11-03-2011, 01:24 AM
Pumilo's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 10,041
Thanks: 813
Thanked 1,766 Times in 1,296 Posts
Default Re: The cracked cork mosaic/living drip wall/pond method...How to

Quote:
Originally Posted by insaneglitchx View Post
So this may sounds like a stupid question. I am currently working on an ExoTerra terrarium. I really want to do this cracked cork bark mosaic style as a background. I have already covered the back wall with black silicone. I have begun to break some cork bark into the pieces that I want, and will soon be placing them onto the back, and one of the walls, of my terrarium. I don't want to try and grow live moss, but I really like the look of the second picture. So, how exactly do you get the sphagnum moss to stick between the pieces of cork bark? Do I stick it to wet silicone on the background?
I'm afraid you have problems already. Fresh silicone does not stick well to old silicone. Your cork bark should have been stuck to the silicone while it was still wet. I'm not sure why you put silicone all over the back but that could be a problem. You may have to scrape off the silicone so you have clean glass to attach to.
Normally you will leave 1/2 to 3/4 inch gaps between you pieces of cork bark. Then you take damp sphagnum moss and just stuff it in. The moss is not actually attached, just stuffed in.
__________________
Doug
Questions are not ignorance. Questions are the birth of knowledge.
Reply With Quote
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 11-03-2011, 01:41 AM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Lewisburg, West Virginia
Posts: 39
Thanks: 8
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default Re: The cracked cork mosaic/living drip wall/pond method...How to

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pumilo View Post
I'm afraid you have problems already. Fresh silicone does not stick well to old silicone. Your cork bark should have been stuck to the silicone while it was still wet. I'm not sure why you put silicone all over the back but that could be a problem. You may have to scrape off the silicone so you have clean glass to attach to.
Normally you will leave 1/2 to 3/4 inch gaps between you pieces of cork bark. Then you take damp and just stuff it in. The moss is not actually attached, just stuffed in.
I siliconed the back wall so I wouldn't have tons of ugly great stuff/silicone/eco earth/moss/cork bark randomness seen from any angle. If I do end up having trouble getting additional silicone to stick to the original covering, I could try and use great stuff instead. So if there is nothing really keeping the moss attached to the wall, won't it start falling out like crazy shortly after stuffing it in?
Reply With Quote
  #13 (permalink)  
Old 11-03-2011, 01:44 AM
Pumilo's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 10,041
Thanks: 813
Thanked 1,766 Times in 1,296 Posts
Default Re: The cracked cork mosaic/living drip wall/pond method...How to

Not if your gaps are kept narrow enough and you pack it tight enough. You really pack it in there. Later, plant growth will lock it into place even more.
__________________
Doug
Questions are not ignorance. Questions are the birth of knowledge.
Reply With Quote
  #14 (permalink)  
Old 11-03-2011, 01:48 AM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Lewisburg, West Virginia
Posts: 39
Thanks: 8
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default Re: The cracked cork mosaic/living drip wall/pond method...How to

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pumilo View Post
Not if your gaps are kept narrow enough and you pack it tight enough. You really pack it in there. Later, plant growth will lock it into place even more.
Awesome! I was really having a hard time trying to figure out how to get moss to stick to silicone or great stuff without letting any of the adhesive show. I was even considering using fishing string somehow. The stuffing makes a lot more sense now that I see how small the spaces are supposed to be. Thanks!
Reply With Quote
  #15 (permalink)  
Old 11-03-2011, 02:09 AM
Pumilo's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 10,041
Thanks: 813
Thanked 1,766 Times in 1,296 Posts
Default Re: The cracked cork mosaic/living drip wall/pond method...How to

Unfortunately, that's also why I worry about the strength of your bark bonding to the wall. Because you really stuff it in there.
Ed has posted a method where you use clay, like a clay background, between the cork pieces. Then you smash some sphagnum into it. I haven't tried that one myself, but thought it worth mentioning.
__________________
Doug
Questions are not ignorance. Questions are the birth of knowledge.
Reply With Quote
  #16 (permalink)  
Old 11-03-2011, 02:34 AM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Lewisburg, West Virginia
Posts: 39
Thanks: 8
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default Re: The cracked cork mosaic/living drip wall/pond method...How to

Well darn. That's why I became a member of this forum I guess. This is my first attempt at ever creating a realistic terrarium. I just hope it's not too late to fix things. I really liked the look of people's set ups when they siliconed the walls. I just didn't know that silicone didn't stick well to itself.
alysonmosher and knutiguti like this.
Reply With Quote
  #17 (permalink)  
Old 11-03-2011, 04:48 PM
phender's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Yorba Linda, CA
Posts: 1,756
Thanks: 35
Thanked 165 Times in 137 Posts
Default Re: The cracked cork mosaic/living drip wall/pond method...How to

You can use Great Stuff to hold the bark on wall, then use silicone and coconut coir to cover the GS. That's was I did. I think it looks good. I just used sphagnum where I wanted plants.

Here're a couple pics.




Here it is planted. I have since added leaf litter, rearranged a few things and had some growth so it looks a lot better, but you get the idea.
sharonahmed2000 and Gibbs.JP like this.
__________________
Phil
leucs, azureus, El Cope auratus, golfito grannies, pumilio-Bastis, ManCreeks, Colons
Reply With Quote
  #18 (permalink)  
Old 11-04-2011, 09:00 AM
Dendro Dave's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 6,279
Thanks: 189
Thanked 631 Times in 431 Posts
Default Re: The cracked cork mosaic/living drip wall/pond method...How to

Thanks guys for fielding these questions since I haven't been around much lately. Couldn't have said it all better myself. One thing I'll add though is that the thicker the pieces of cork the more space between them you can usually get away with. I tend to keep the spaces an inch or less though. I think a good rule of thumb is no more space between the pieces then the pieces are thick (up to around an inch...stick to around an inch even if the pieces are thicker). The extra thickness allows you to jam more moss in and have the compression/friction whatever hold it in place.

Btw nice viv Phender. That is a good example of how I do these other then I just jam the moss in instead of the coir and in the larger spaces I'd put more pieces of cork to make more "cracks" to hold the moss. Its hard to get the moss to stay in larger open areas like in the lower left side near glass, and top center area in his viv, but totally fine for Phender's variation since it doesn't rely on compression to hold anything in place.
__________________
Everything I've ever written is/was just my opinion!
Reply With Quote
  #19 (permalink)  
Old 11-04-2011, 03:23 PM
Pumilo's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 10,041
Thanks: 813
Thanked 1,766 Times in 1,296 Posts
Default Re: The cracked cork mosaic/living drip wall/pond method...How to

Good to see you back Dave! I love this method and didn't want to see it fade away. I originally used it only as a way to use up some extra scrap bits I had left over after resizing cork for about 10 other vivs. I like it so much I'm planning on busting up some cork for my next vivs.
A tip on breaking up your cork. The thicker pieces can be impossible to break. If you simply cut them, the straight edge doesn't look as natural. If you cut halfway through the back (I have used my table saw and also a Dremel tool for this--the Dremel lets you do a rougher, more jagged line), then you can break the piece. This leaves a little more natural looking edge.
I like to place my viv on it's back and lay out all the pieces to see just how they are going to fit. Then I silicone them in one by one. As Dave mentioned in another thread, remember that you don't need to waste cork towards the bottom. Your false bottom, substrate, and leaf litter will take up about 5 inches so you don't need to go all the way down.
Oh, and Dave, you could too have said it better. You would have somehow brought space aliens or a team of trained dragonflies into play!
__________________
Doug
Questions are not ignorance. Questions are the birth of knowledge.
Reply With Quote
  #20 (permalink)  
Old 11-06-2011, 01:01 AM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Lewisburg, West Virginia
Posts: 39
Thanks: 8
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default Re: The cracked cork mosaic/living drip wall/pond method...How to

I used great stuff to stick all of my cork bark to the walls, and it seems to be holding quite well. I've trimmed the great stuff back, and I'm ready to stuff in the sphagnum moss. So, does it matter whether the moss is wet or dry when I stuff it in?
Reply With Quote
  #21 (permalink)  
Old 11-06-2011, 01:03 AM
Pumilo's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 10,041
Thanks: 813
Thanked 1,766 Times in 1,296 Posts
Default Re: The cracked cork mosaic/living drip wall/pond method...How to

Quote:
Originally Posted by insaneglitchx View Post
I used great stuff to stick all of my cork bark to the walls, and it seems to be holding quite well. I've trimmed the great stuff back, and I'm ready to stuff in the sphagnum moss. So, does it matter whether the moss is wet or dry when I stuff it in?
I do it wet, on the theory that doing it dry may be breaking it up into smaller pieces that are more likely to fall out. Get it wet and squeeze the excess moisture out.
__________________
Doug
Questions are not ignorance. Questions are the birth of knowledge.
Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Pumilo For This Useful Post:
insaneglitchx (11-06-2011)
  #22 (permalink)  
Old 11-07-2011, 02:54 PM
Venutus1's Avatar
Sponsor
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Yarmouth, Maine
Posts: 557
Thanks: 76
Thanked 55 Times in 40 Posts
Default Re: The cracked cork mosaic/living drip wall/pond method...How to

Dave, this inspires me to set up a 65 hex I have doing nothing.
Great work. The moss looks great.
I am solidly in the Dendro Dave fan club now.

Todd
Dendro Dave likes this.
__________________
Sincerely,
Todd Goode
www.lightyourreptiles.com
[email protected]
Reply With Quote
  #23 (permalink)  
Old 01-10-2012, 11:33 PM
cowboy232350's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Santee, San Diego
Posts: 512
Blog Entries: 1
Thanks: 20
Thanked 16 Times in 14 Posts
Default Re: The cracked cork mosaic/living drip wall/pond method...How to

After reading up on this I feel confident to give this a shot!
Reply With Quote
  #24 (permalink)  
Old 04-20-2013, 11:17 AM
Dendro Dave's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 6,279
Thanks: 189
Thanked 631 Times in 431 Posts
Default Re: The cracked cork mosaic/living drip wall/pond method...How to

Ok sorry to resurrect a dead thread, but I dug this up because of another thread and realized I had never posted a pick of the hex grown mostly grown in so figured I'd do that now (The tank went to friends I haven't seen in awhile...it may look like crap now)...and some people really like this method but the thread is old so many may not have seen it and get some benefit from it....I hope.

Anyways here are a couple shots of the hex (sorry many have you have already seen it, I know). More pics/video in the gallery/youtube links below in my signature of this tank/construction and much much more.





jacobi and grackle like this.
__________________
Everything I've ever written is/was just my opinion!

Last edited by Dendro Dave; 04-20-2013 at 11:24 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #25 (permalink)  
Old 01-01-2014, 04:09 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Chesapeake, VA
Posts: 139
Thanks: 22
Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts
Default Re: The cracked cork mosaic/living drip wall/pond method...How to

I'm glad you did resurrect it. I was actually waffling about whether or not to buy some hygrolon to use in my viv build because I want to have moss growing between the cork pieces but this looks so much easier than trying to figure out how to attach the hygrolon and cork.
Reply With Quote
  #26 (permalink)  
Old 01-01-2014, 04:40 PM
Dendro Dave's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 6,279
Thanks: 189
Thanked 631 Times in 431 Posts
Default Re: The cracked cork mosaic/living drip wall/pond method...How to

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kudaria View Post
I'm glad you did resurrect it. I was actually waffling about whether or not to buy some hygrolon to use in my viv build because I want to have moss growing between the cork pieces but this looks so much easier than trying to figure out how to attach the hygrolon and cork.
Thanks... I'll actually be trying to mix some hygrolon in the next one I build this way. So you might experiment with that.
__________________
Everything I've ever written is/was just my opinion!
Reply With Quote
  #27 (permalink)  
Old 01-01-2014, 05:18 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Chesapeake, VA
Posts: 139
Thanks: 22
Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts
Default Re: The cracked cork mosaic/living drip wall/pond method...How to

Hmm not too sure about how to do that, especially as this is my first terrarium/vivarium.

I figure I'm breaking the KISS principle enough by going with a internal fan for interior air circulation and getting more creative than just a fern tree panel for the background.
Reply With Quote
  #28 (permalink)  
Old 01-01-2014, 06:17 PM
Charlie Q's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Rocky Mount, NC
Posts: 332
Thanks: 4
Thanked 17 Times in 15 Posts
Default Re: The cracked cork mosaic/living drip wall/pond method...How to

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kudaria View Post
Hmm not too sure about how to do that, especially as this is my first terrarium/vivarium.

I figure I'm breaking the KISS principle enough by going with a internal fan for interior air circulation and getting more creative than just a fern tree panel for the background.
I used the cork bark mosaic for my first and only viv. i did not include a drip wall or anything fancy, but the silicone, cork and sphagnum were super easy to apply.
Reply With Quote
  #29 (permalink)  
Old 01-02-2014, 05:02 AM
Dendro Dave's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 6,279
Thanks: 189
Thanked 631 Times in 431 Posts
Default Re: The cracked cork mosaic/living drip wall/pond method...How to

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kudaria View Post
Hmm not too sure about how to do that, especially as this is my first terrarium/vivarium.

I figure I'm breaking the KISS principle enough by going with a internal fan for interior air circulation and getting more creative than just a fern tree panel for the background.
Well actually I think I had "epiweb/ecoweb" in my head because it is hard to make the sphagnum stay in place in gaps more then an inch wide usually, so if you want an area with more green in some places instead of putting a cork piece there as part of the mosaic just put a piece of epi/eco web. Then if need be you can pack sphagnum into any gaps just like you would between 2 cork pieces, only this time it is a cork piece and an epiweb piece you are packing the moss between.

But...
You can also use shaped pieces of pvc, or foam, panels or some type, or even real wood fully or partially wrapped with some hygrolon in places to help things grow there. Basically it is just one more tool to help you do something where that something may not be easily achieved with other methods... It's up to you to be creative

I'd recommend researching the hygrolon threads to see what others have done with it to give you some ideas. I've been to poor to actually start experimenting with it so far, but I'm sure I can find some uses for it
__________________
Everything I've ever written is/was just my opinion!
Reply With Quote
  #30 (permalink)  
Old 01-02-2014, 05:06 AM
Dendro Dave's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 6,279
Thanks: 189
Thanked 631 Times in 431 Posts
Default Re: The cracked cork mosaic/living drip wall/pond method...How to

Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie Q View Post
I used the cork bark mosaic for my first and only viv. i did not include a drip wall or anything fancy, but the silicone, cork and sphagnum were super easy to apply.
If you hand mist regularly or better yet have an automated misting system that hits the back wall you probably wouldn't need a drip wall. The moss and stuff will soak up and/or wick up enough water from misting and the substrate unless maybe you have some super super moisture loving plants back there.
__________________
Everything I've ever written is/was just my opinion!
Reply With Quote
  #31 (permalink)  
Old 01-02-2014, 04:31 PM
jacobi's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Brooklyn, New York
Posts: 2,724
Thanks: 149
Thanked 93 Times in 85 Posts
Default Re: The cracked cork mosaic/living drip wall/pond method...How to

I've actually had a problem with this method. The sphagnum moss came back to life and is taking over my background
__________________
Jake
[email protected]
Reply With Quote
  #32 (permalink)  
Old 01-02-2014, 05:06 PM
Dendro Dave's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 6,279
Thanks: 189
Thanked 631 Times in 431 Posts
Default Re: The cracked cork mosaic/living drip wall/pond method...How to

Quote:
Originally Posted by jacobi View Post
I've actually had a problem with this method. The sphagnum moss came back to life and is taking over my background
Wow you can't even keep dead moss dead? ...FAIL. Quit the hobby now

Octothorpe, Pumilo, jacobi and 1 others like this.
__________________
Everything I've ever written is/was just my opinion!
Reply With Quote
  #33 (permalink)  
Old 01-02-2014, 05:19 PM
rigel10's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Italy
Posts: 2,595
Thanks: 56
Thanked 189 Times in 180 Posts
Default Re: The cracked cork mosaic/living drip wall/pond method...How to

Quote:
Originally Posted by jacobi View Post
I've actually had a problem with this method. The sphagnum moss came back to life and is taking over my background
Any pics and tips?
Reply With Quote
  #34 (permalink)  
Old 01-03-2014, 03:53 PM
Charlie Q's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Rocky Mount, NC
Posts: 332
Thanks: 4
Thanked 17 Times in 15 Posts
Default Re: The cracked cork mosaic/living drip wall/pond method...How to

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dendro Dave View Post
If you hand mist regularly or better yet have an automated misting system that hits the back wall you probably wouldn't need a drip wall. The moss and stuff will soak up and/or wick up enough water from misting and the substrate unless maybe you have some super super moisture loving plants back there.
I do hand mist regularly, and it does work fine, my sphagnum is also coming back to life all over the background. =)

I also have some crypts, vines, and some other random plants on there. everything is doing great.
Reply With Quote
  #35 (permalink)  
Old 01-07-2014, 03:59 PM
jacobi's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Brooklyn, New York
Posts: 2,724
Thanks: 149
Thanked 93 Times in 85 Posts
Default Re: The cracked cork mosaic/living drip wall/pond method...How to

Quote:
Originally Posted by rigel10 View Post
Any pics and tips?
Not really tips per se, but I hand mist heavily daily or every other day, and have a lot of ventilation.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg uploadfromtaptalk1389113897627.jpg (92.1 KB, 380 views)
File Type: jpg uploadfromtaptalk1389113905992.jpg (99.4 KB, 334 views)
File Type: jpg uploadfromtaptalk1389113915569.jpg (82.7 KB, 303 views)
rigel10 and kshorey like this.
__________________
Jake
[email protected]
Reply With Quote
  #36 (permalink)  
Old 01-07-2014, 04:01 PM
jacobi's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Brooklyn, New York
Posts: 2,724
Thanks: 149
Thanked 93 Times in 85 Posts
Default Re: The cracked cork mosaic/living drip wall/pond method...How to

Whoops. This didn't attach to my post.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg uploadfromtaptalk1389114061677.jpg (100.9 KB, 485 views)
__________________
Jake
[email protected]
Reply With Quote
  #37 (permalink)  
Old 01-26-2014, 05:47 PM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 53
Thanks: 3
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Default Re: The cracked cork mosaic/living drip wall/pond method...How to

Hmm...so it sounds like a drip wall might not be necessary? I am planning my first viv and I really like this mosaic method, however I am not sure I want to add the drip wall feature. Reason being, I am planning to have a fairly thick layer of foam so that I can have pots buried in the background and I think I will have to make the drainage section wider than I would like using up valuable real estate for planting in my 18x18 bottom.

My other question is for long term success of the background I am planning on using black silicone, letting it dry and then applying the foam. Before the foam dries I was planning a attaching the cork tile pieces. Does this sound good or is it overkill?
Reply With Quote
  #38 (permalink)  
Old 03-20-2014, 09:14 PM
Jeremy M's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: nor cal
Posts: 203
Thanks: 37
Thanked 17 Times in 17 Posts
Default Re: The cracked cork mosaic/living drip wall/pond method...How to

I've been planning on setting up a viv using this method, but incorporating strips of Hygrolon laid down behind the sphagnum. I'm thinking that one wouldn't even need to glue the fabric down to the glass as the sphagnum should hold it in place. Hopefully this would increase the moisture content all the way up the wall, though I'm not sure that the hygrolon would be powerful enough to wick all the way to the top and supply moisture to all of that sphagnum. This may actually be one of two scenarios that Hygrolon's competitor Aquamat may do better than it with its supposedly larger water wicking and retention abilities (the other for simply attaching to flat glass to raise humidity in a tank or open-air environment (probably with some creeping fig thrown on it as well, because it's ridiculous not to grow some type of plant on such a material)). At the very least, using one of these materials should lengthen the timespan of how long the moss will stay moist after misting, or prevent it from fully drying out.

I'd love someone else to try this, as I would only be able to do a small portion as an experiment, and probably not even enough to determine if it's worthwhile or not.
Reply With Quote
  #39 (permalink)  
Old 06-07-2015, 09:09 PM
Dendro Dave's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 6,279
Thanks: 189
Thanked 631 Times in 431 Posts
Default Re: The cracked cork mosaic/living drip wall/pond method...How to

Since this thread recently got referenced again, and when I looked at it realized I never added some of the Hex construction pics I figured I'd do that instead of forcing everyone to my Flickr account...





Kinda the only shot I think of the intermediate stage between construction and grown in, so I'll include it even though it sucks...



Take that back here is another a bit further along...


And if you wanna dig through all the pics, here they are...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/

Refer to earlier posts or the Flickr to see the finished product

Sorry no actual updates since the viv went to friends years ago, but they said it is still running last time I heard.


Someone has probably thought of it, but next time I use this method I wanna try covering the glass in spyra, or hygrolon and then attaching the cork so the moisture wicks into the background keeping it moist with less need of misting or a drip wall. If anyone has done this in the original way without foaming in the mosaic I'd like to see/hear how it worked for you. I see no harm in it at least, but I think it will likely improve on the original method. Maybe it will stop people from feeling the need to foam in the mosaic! ...still looks nice, but don't be afraid people. Cork/glass/sphag, that is all you really need
Jeremy M and Kendra like this.
__________________
Everything I've ever written is/was just my opinion!

Last edited by Dendro Dave; 06-07-2015 at 09:14 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #40 (permalink)  
Old 06-08-2015, 11:35 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Delaware, USA
Posts: 128
Thanks: 5
Thanked 14 Times in 11 Posts
Default Re: The cracked cork mosaic/living drip wall/pond method...How to

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dendro Dave View Post
Someone has probably thought of it, but next time I use this method I wanna try covering the glass in spyra, or hygrolon and then attaching the cork so the moisture wicks into the background keeping it moist with less need of misting or a drip wall.[...] I see no harm in it at least, but I think it will likely improve on the original method.
Oh man 100% yes. I just picked up a bunch of it myself and will be doing this with my next viv one way or another.

I would imagine it could be a nice addition to a clay background as well. With the clay I would imagine you could lay down your first level of clay, stick the synthetic medium to it and recover the synthetic with clay. Creative use of egg crate could prevent the slippage of the clay layers and the synthetic media would wick up through the clay layer while also covering the eggcrate. Might improve the longevity of the background.
Keni likes this.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Living wall tips? Uroplatus428 Parts & Construction 4 08-16-2010 12:18 AM
drip wall mossy oak Plants 8 04-02-2010 07:02 PM
Drip Wall IndianaJosh Parts & Construction 9 09-18-2008 06:29 AM
drip wall help please salaman Parts & Construction 6 02-16-2007 04:40 PM
preferred method for pond walls? Iheartdarts Beginner Discussion 3 02-22-2006 03:47 PM

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT. The time now is 07:43 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2020 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.