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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am considering using a 20g for my tads as I dont have enough space for tons of jars. I know Spring water isnt too expensive, but if I want to do water changes every now and then and it may require a lot over time. This isn't about the $ (as it is cheap anyway), but more so about the hassle of lugging tons of gallon containers from the grocery store all the time.

I have an RO/DI filter for my fish tanks already, and I have "RO Right" to add back minerals. Think this would be ok in place of the spring water?

also... is filteration possible in tad tanks without them getting sucked in easy? or is filteration even necessary? I will have lots of java moss and almond leaves in there.
 

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I've used R.O. water with blackwater extract for both my auratus and imitator tads...never had a problem with S.L.S. or anything. I raise the imtator tads in a petri dish with java moss in the water. For the auratus, I put each clutch in a 64 oz container with java moss. Water changes for either when it looks like it needs it.

I think most PDF tads do fine without filtration.
 
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Vent tadpoles are cannibalistic you won't like the result of keeping them together. I use RO water tanned with leaves. If you use "RO right " you should be ok. I rarely do water changes with my tads, maybe once or twice the whole time. I keep mine in 1/2 full 32oz mason jars. Overfeeding the tads is the biggest reason for the water fouling.
 

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Lots of people use RO and if you already have the filter, it's a no brainer. The "RO Right" that I use is just a fistfull of oak leaves and a pinch of compost or soil. Just about anything containing soluble minerals will fix the overblown problem RO demineralizing tads.

Ben's right about vent tads being notoriously cannibilistic. But NAIB use to, or still does, rear vents communally in large tubs. They said whatever they lost to cannibilism was unknown but most morph out. They thought given the vents a large enough volume of water was the trick. I can't recall a hobbyist ever repeating the experiment on their own tads so let us know how this goes. I'm a big fan of communal rearing so if it can be done with vents, that would be great.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
thanks for all the tips.

i was already aware of the canabalism, as I have already had 6 eggs with fully developed tads eaten by 2 other tads...

however, my hours at work keep me from having time to constantly care for tads in their individual compartments.

I am going to use a 20g long that is about 6 inches high in water. I will have tons of leaves (almond), java moss, and a fake plant fish-fry matt that should allow for more than enough hiding spots.

i am also going to add a area for the tads to morph out on, and then move them to a 10g once the tail is gone.

hopefully this works... if not, then at least it is a valid lesson learned. and then back to the time-consuming work!
 

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The leaves will probably do it for you, but I would also suggest buffering RO water. RO water left unbuffered can rapidly change pH = bad for tads
 

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rompida said:
The leaves will probably do it for you, but I would also suggest buffering RO water. RO water left unbuffered can rapidly change pH = bad for tads
That's a very good point. I've found that the mix of stuff I put in tad tubs leads to a stable pH but I only learned that through monitoring in the early days. It would be a good idea to monitor pH when working out your own protocol. If the pH is unstable, I would guess that also means that your RO water is still ion starved as well which could lead to the problems that are so hyped by many people.
 
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