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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here's the setup:
  • 29 gal tank
  • False bottom
  • Canister filter
  • Tree fern drip walls (no water feature)
  • Marineland double bright LED strip (24")
  • No standing water in tank except for condensation, water collected in leaf litter and plants (I might add a continuous mister in the near future)

Do you think I will need a UV sterilizer? Have any of you had algae blooms? If so, how did you resolve the problem? Have any of you used chemical controls like Algaefix or Algae Destroyer Advanced? These two chemicals claim they are safe for live plants, coral, invertebrates, and fish; however, nothing is mentioned about frogs.

Thank you in advance. I greatly appreciate any advice that can be provided.
 

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You do not need an UV sterilizer for a vivarium. Unless you have a pond light wont even reach the false bottom so its very hard for algae to live, if not impossible. If you're referring to Algae in the drip wall, I would not worry about it. You do not usually have the drip wall running 24/7 anyway. It line is dont worry about it, it would be unlikely to be a problem.
 

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Here's the setup:
  • 29 gal tank
  • False bottom
  • Canister filter
  • Tree fern drip walls (no water feature)
  • Marineland double bright LED strip (24")
  • No standing water in tank except for condensation, water collected in leaf litter and plants (I might add a continuous mister in the near future)

Do you think I will need a UV sterilizer? Have any of you had algae blooms? If so, how did you resolve the problem? Have any of you used chemical controls like Algaefix or Algae Destroyer Advanced? These two chemicals claim they are safe for live plants, coral, invertebrates, and fish; however, nothing is mentioned about frogs.

Thank you in advance. I greatly appreciate any advice that can be provided.

What is the canister filter, filtering, if there is no standing water? If you have standing water a UV is not necessary but it wouldn't hurt to use one. However even the smallest of UV's needs 50 gph through it to keep it from heating up the water to much
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
What is the canister filter, filtering, if there is no standing water? If you have standing water a UV is not necessary but it wouldn't hurt to use one. However even the smallest of UV's needs 50 gph through it to keep it from heating up the water to much
First, I want to say, "Thank you," to those of you who responded or will respond in the future. I appreciate constructive criticism, questions, and advice.

My filter will be cycling the water from the false bottom up to 1/4" drip tubing lining the top rim of the tank (except the front of the enclosure). I originally planned on having the drip wall run 24/7, but I do not need to; additionally, I do not have to have the filter running 24/7 as there will only be 3-4 gallons of water cycling through the viv at any given time. I want the filter and drip wall to clean the water and to maintain consistent 80-90% humidity.

I guess I will wait to see if I have any algae problem or not, as I will be letting the viv establish itself for a few months before I add any frogs. I just wanted to know if algae was a problem for people who have already had established vivs. I have used a UV sterilizer before in a hydroponic "touch tank" in my classroom, and it cleared up completely green water in about a week.
 

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Having run similar set-ups there are some potential issues to consider...

The first is that if you don't have enough water to prevent air from being sucked into the filter, it is going to be very noisy, the second is that small volumes like canister filters can go anaerobic fairly quickly and in solution hydrogen sulphide can be very toxic, the third is that those filters are built to be cooled by the water flowing through them, small volumes of water get a lot hotter much more quickly than you would expect.....

Some comments,

Ed
 

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+1 to Ed's thoughts on a canister filter.

It was the one issue that was coming to mind as I was reading through the posts.

Even my high quality eheim if shut off for one night will produce a funny smell when it is turned back on in the morning...you dont ever want to stop the flow of water through a canister filter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The first is that if you don't have enough water to prevent air from being sucked into the filter, it is going to be very noisy, the second is that small volumes like canister filters can go anaerobic fairly quickly and in solution hydrogen sulphide can be very toxic, the third is that those filters are built to be cooled by the water flowing through them, small volumes of water get a lot hotter much more quickly than you would expect.....
Thanks, Ed.

A few questions in response to your comments:
1. How does water volume attribute to air getting in the filter?
2. Again, why would small volumes cause the water inside the canister to become anaerobic? It seems this would happen with any volume of water.

Thanks again! You're giving me much food for thought!
 

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He isnt talking about the small volume of your tank - he is talking about the small volume inside the canister filter.

It is filled with trapped waste and when water movement stops while that stuff continues to decay, it doesnt take it long to go anerobic.

In addition to that I wouldnt trust an eheim with a very shallow intake depth.

You have very little room for error when it comes to evaporation - and if the intake is powerful enough, it might even suck some air down into it.

A noisy eheim is an eheim that is full of air as I say. :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
He isnt talking about the small volume of your tank - he is talking about the small volume inside the canister filter.

It is filled with trapped waste and when water movement stops while that stuff continues to decay, it doesnt take it long to go anerobic.

In addition to that I wouldnt trust an eheim with a very shallow intake depth.

You have very little room for error when it comes to evaporation - and if the intake is powerful enough, it might even suck some air down into it.

A noisy eheim is an eheim that is full of air as I say. :D
Thanks for the clarification. I originally planned on running the filter 24/7, but I didn't think about the ramifications of stagnant water in the canister filter. As far as the Eheim sucking in air, I think I will make a plastic table top over the bulkhead inlet to ensure lateral water intake rather than vertical. Like I said, I'm in no rush, so I will try this out and post my results.

Thanks!
 

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Thats the best way to do things...Ill be along for the ride.

I do planted tanks and reefs - so when it comes to eheims and plumbing I can help out somewhat...frogs Im new to!

Eager to see this all coming together, I like your big ideas!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thats the best way to do things...Ill be along for the ride.

I do planted tanks and reefs - so when it comes to eheims and plumbing I can help out somewhat...frogs Im new to!

Eager to see this all coming together, I like your big ideas!
I'm going to start playing with the filter today. I may contact you if I run into any issues. My biggest concern is straining the motor if the drip system does not allow enough effluent. I figured on measuring the number of holes that came with the manufacturer's drip-bar, and using that as a basis for determining the number and size of the holes on my more elaborate drip-bar system. I was thinking of borrowing/getting a dremel so I could use tiny drill bits for the drip holes, but I am not sure if this will happen.

As soon as I start to actually put the tank together, I'll start posting some photos. In the meantime, I am trying to find safe black paint and sealer for my eggcrate floor and walls, and for my drip wall plumbing. It's all going to be covered with fern panels and plants, but I would rather not take a chance of white plastic showing through the panels. Additionally, until I build a frame for the completed viv to cover the sides and the false-bottom, the black paint will help hide the egg crate.

Thanks
 
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