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The ultimate clay-based substrate thread

115135 Views 345 Replies 64 Participants Last post by  Ed
With the recent discussions on a few posts concerning Brent's redart clay substrate I was wondering if anybody is thinking of switching to this substrate and how you were planning on doing it.

Merged Red-Art Clay thread and part of Husbandry improvements thread from Science and Conservation - Oz
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When using water for the boiling part, are you using tap water or RO?

What is the pH of the soil when it's done? Would it be bad if I wanted to add more calcium carbonate? other than the fact that I'll have to readjust the pH in case it gets too high from it.
EDITTED! (more calcium than I thought)

The water should not matter. any hardness will be nothing in comparison to the ions in the soil. Unless you suspect your water has high levels of organic contaminants or heavy metals I would not worry about it. (and if your tap water is that bad.... hopefully you are not drinking it)

More calcium is not bad, within reason. Even the amount I prescribed may be enough to buffer it at a higher pH, I added .4% Ca

The soils I work on in the tropics are considered Calcium rich at ~1800 mg/Kg total Ca. that is .18% Ca or the same as adding 9 grams of CaCO3.
I added 2 times that amount.

This also doesn't count Calcium already in the bentonite which already has significant levels in it.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bentonite
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I'd like to try the "from scratch" mixture in an "experimental" tank that I'm working on, but I'm having trouble figuring out how much material to buy...

My tank is roughly 24" x 18", and I'd like a soil layer of about 3". Roughly how much clay/FeO/etc should I buy? I wouldn't mind having a little left over, but I also don't want to have a ton of extra clay sitting around.

Thanks!
Allan.
allanschon said:
My tank is roughly 24" x 18", and I'd like a soil layer of about 3". Roughly how much clay/FeO/etc should I buy?
The bulk density of tropical soil is ~.9-1g/cm3 (undisturbed, uncompacted and dried at 100° C)
your soil needs would be 21300 cm3 (1300 in3)
that would be 21300 grams of soil (21.3 kg or 46 lbs)

more than you thought it would be I bet!
and this is before the water gets added

I am not sure of the actual bulk density in my tanks is, will try and measure it to get a better number.
Holy cow! :shock:

I'm glad I asked; I would have bought 10% of that, and been worried about having too much... Now I understand why you used so much perlite in the lorenzo tank. After adding water, and including the weight of the tank, that would be over 100lbs per tank...

I may have to re-think this... I'm not sure if my shelves will hold that much weight. In fact, I'm not sure if the bottom glass would hold it without cracking... Not to mention that buying that much clay will end up costing more than I spent on the tank... ( I got it second-hand )

If I can solve the weight issue, I'll see if I can collect some local soil and amend from there. Do you have any suggestions on where to collect soil to avoid getting too many pollutants?
The tank should hold the weight. A 20 gallon high (24L X 12 W X 16 H) will weight 180 lbs just from the water. Not counting gravel that is added too.

Your shelves may be another issue!

My recipe is ~28% bentonite (I just realized i left it off the list!)
this stuff is real cheap (25 lb for $3). the EPK is ~50 cents a lb
the oxides are expensive but you do not need much of them.

As for finding good local soil try to find an area that is not in active agriculture. Even better is to find an organic farm

Matt
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**REVISED SOIL RECIPE** (forgot an ingredient)

Not sure how it happened but I left off an ingredient to my "from scratch" soil recipe. If you look the percentages I gave in my initial post do not add up to 100%! Below is the recipe including bentonite:

This soil recipe makes soils from "scratch," all ingredients you can get from a grocery store and local pottery supply.

here is the general recipe in grams of ingredients and percentages:
kaolinite (EPK) 1100 56%
Bentonite (kitty litter) 550 28%
Fe Oxide red 70 4%
Fe Oxide Yellow 70 4%
Al oxide 60 3%
sugar 15 1%
cornstarch 15 1%
gelatin 10 1%
soy protein 10 1%
CaCO3 20 1%
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I wondered about the missing percentage.. ;)

The thing about the weight that concerns me is that the tank will be lying on it's "side". I've build a front opening door for it, similar to the typical vert conversion. It's a Lizard Lounge from Oceanic, so the glass supporting the substrate weight isn't tempered. In fact, the tank wasn't designed to hold more than a few inches of water in the first place. I only spent $10 for the tank, though, so I'll give it a shot, after I've reinforced the shelving.

I wonder if you could comment on the purpose of the various ingredients. I can imagine that the gelatin, soy protein and corn starch help with structure and texture, and the various oxides and CaCO3 affect pH and mineral content. The sugar, however has me really scratching my head...

Also, after a little thought, I was wondering about the heating stage of the process. When used in cooking, I've always been warned against overheating corn starch, because it allegedly breaks down if heated to boiling. Is that something to worry about, or is the corn starch included for a different purpose entirely?
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The sugar also helps with aggregate formation acting like glue between clay particles. Much as sugar on the floor will make you stick to it.
The corn starch acts in a similar way tot eh proteins both are long organic molecules that can interact with different clay particles and each other to form clumps (like pudding or Jello).

The corn starch gets activated by boiling water causing it to denature and unravel. Cornstarch is often used as a thickening agent in food but first must be boiled otherwise it does not in that application.

Tropical soil is ~%5 organic matter or less. which is the amount the recipe calls for. However soil is not composed of labile forms of organic matter (like I have listed above). The organic matter in your soil will be rapidly consumed by fungi, bacteria and other soil fauna. The bacteria and fungi will eventually die and their decomposing bodies will form NEW soil organic matter that is less labile and much more diverse. Do not be surprised or worried about mold in the soil. It will pass. you can also decrease the amount of organic matter by half to reduce this further (which I plan to do in future batches).

The oxides role is not entirely understood but they are associated with pseudosanding/microaggregation the oxides seem to interact with other soil cations (Ca, Mg, etc) and soil organic matter to help promote structure. The paradox of tropical soils is that the oxides in them should be leaching out from all the rain... but they don't so something is helping them stay in the soil.

hope this helps

Matt
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Error in recipe!

Guys I found an error in my recipe, I thought I had fixed it. below is the proper percentages:

here is the general recipe in grams of ingredients and percentages:

kaolinite (EPK) 1100 56%
Bentonite (absorbent clay kitty litter) 550 28%
Fe Oxide red 70 4%
Fe Oxide Yellow 70 4%
Al oxide 60 3%
sugar 15 1%
cornstarch 15 1%
gelatin 10 1%
soy protein 10 1%
CaCO3 20 1%
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Matt Mirabello said:
The oxides role is not entirely understood but they are associated with pseudosanding/microaggregation the oxides seem to interact with other soil cations (Ca, Mg, etc) and soil organic matter to help promote structure. The paradox of tropical soils is that the oxides in them should be leaching out from all the rain... but they don't so something is helping them stay in the soil.

hope this helps

Matt
Well I am going back a few years to when I worked in a R&D plant with zeolites...
Zeolites tend to hold and bind cations based on thier pore size and structure (the ammonia absorbing resin in some filter carbons is a different zeolite). Once the positive cations get into the structure the tend to be stable in the mixture. This renders them pretty immobile with in the structure of the zeolite. I would suspect that the bentonite functions similarly as it has a similar structure (it is a aluminium phyllosilicate) but I could also be very wrong as I am going back almost 20 years in my memory for this...).

Bentonite is also good at picking up and binding organic molecules like protiens from water (which is why it is used in wine making to clear water (and in some koi ponds)).

Ed
Ed said:
I would suspect that the bentonite functions similarly as it has a similar structure (it is a aluminium phyllosilicate) but I could also be very wrong as I am going back almost 20 years in my memory for this...).
Ed
This is like saying a turpene is similar to an octane since they are both hydrocarbons.

Ed said:
Zeolites tend to hold and bind cations based on thier pore size and structure (the ammonia absorbing resin in some filter carbons is a different zeolite). Once the positive cations get into the structure the tend to be stable in the mixture. This renders them pretty immobile with in the structure of the zeolite.
Ed
Exactly! the cations get trapped in the Zeolite. With bentonite the cations are bound to it through coulombic attraction (electrostatics). They otherwise have very different structures (see wikipedia). One has an open porous structure the other is in sheets or layers.
There is also columbic attraction as well.. hey.. its been a long time since I had anything to do with that stuff... and of course it shows....

Do you mean terpene?

and one other oddity comment.. one of the major uses for silicates is filtering all of the items in Mass produced American beer so it all tastes the same and all batches taste the same...

Ed
Ed said:
Do you mean terpene? Ed
I did mean Terpene, I shortened turpentine (not realizing it was spelled differently)

It has been many years since I took organic chemistry and now mostly deal with inorganic chemistrer y, especially the complex world of mineral soil/rocks
Organic material is important to soil, but far more complex than any intro organic chemistry course
I've posted this elsewhere but I have come to believe that clay-based substrates will turn out to be the next major advancement in pdf husbandry. The biggests advantages I'm seeing (other tha it being permanent) is that it promotes a robust and diverse microfauna plus making calcium and other nutrients available to froglets independent of dusting. After switching to this type of substrate, I've been consistently rearing an average of one or more pumilio froglets inside the natal vivarium, with no additional care from me, from a single adult pair. So far this summer this tank has morphed 10 froglets to adult size since May. I can't attribute all of this to the substrate, but I've become absolutely convinced that the substrate is a major contributor.
I may have to comb this exhausted thread again, but Brent what is your clay-based soil recommendations? Recipe.

products to try? {I'm using only the Shultz product and 'play sand' in my mix currently}

quick thoughts on LECA alone? My first thought is it is too porous, too rough, too much "air" spaces to provide a natural mix of biologicals/bacteria. I havent used it in years.

thanks

Shawn
sports_doc said:
I may have to comb this exhausted thread again, but Brent what is your clay-based soil recommendations? Recipe.

products to try? {I'm using only the Shultz product and 'play sand' in my mix currently}
I keep thinking I might mix up a bulk batch of this and sell it but that doesn't look likely anytime soon so here it is. I stress though that this is still a product in development and I do intend to refine it if possible. Kyle, Ron, and a couple others have experimented with this mix as well so they may be able to provide testimonials, good or bad. Also check out Matt's recipe in the redart clay thread as his recipe is much more faithful to creating real tropica pseudosand.

Dirty Old Man Performance Substrate

Mix 2-3 parts Redart clay with 1 part local soil (I collect mine from under conifers to get a good mycorrhizal inoculation) [edit: beware of chytrid! Use sterile topsoil if in doubt]. Add just enough sharp sand to be able to tell it is there. Add about 1/4 to 1/2 cup hydrated lime to 2 gallons of soil mix. Mix it all up. A cement mixer would be ideal but I use a paint mixer attached to a drill. Slowly add water while stirring until the mix is evenly damp and clumps up into pea sized and smaller aggregates. Spread the mix out in the sun on a piece of burlap or similar and let it dry. Dilute some acrylic mortar fortifier about 10:1 with water (so it is really thin and diluted). Spray down the dried mix with the solution to thoroughly dampen it. Let it dry and repeat the spraying. Let it dry again. Sprinkle a little more lime over the mix and stir it in. It is ready to use. If you want to get really picky, sieve the mix through a 1/4" mesh. I didn't and just broke up the largest chunks by pinching them.

A common question is, "what is the pH?" and I don't know. That's something I hope to address in future iterations but since I grow most viv plants epiphytically, the pH is not that important to me so long as it is not too acidic or caustic to the frogs. I can say that plant roots do grow in this stuff though, as mine is infused with fine roots along the surface.

quick thoughts on LECA alone? My first thought is it is too porous, too rough, too much "air" spaces to provide a natural mix of biologicals/bacteria. I havent used it in years.

thanks

Shawn
One thing I do think LECA is good at is drying out tanks a bit. I think we (and I include myself) tend to keep our frogs in overly wet conditions. LECA seems great for providing dry areas. So many of the substrates we use wick a lot of water so they end up like a constantly damp sponge. I'm not sure that is the best thing for the frogs.
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bbrock said:
Dirty Old Man Performance Substrate

Mix 2-3 parts Redart clay with 1 part local soil (I collect mine from under conifers to get a good mycorrhizal inoculation) [edit: beware of chytrid! Use sterile topsoil if in doubt]. Add just enough sharp sand to be able to tell it is there. Add about 1/4 to 1/2 cup hydrated lime to 2 gallons of soil mix. Mix it all up. A cement mixer would be ideal but I use a paint mixer attached to a drill. Slowly add water while stirring until the mix is evenly damp and clumps up into pea sized and smaller aggregates. Spread the mix out in the sun on a piece of burlap or similar and let it dry. Dilute some acrylic mortar fortifier about 10:1 with water (so it is really thin and diluted). Spray down the dried mix with the solution to thoroughly dampen it. Let it dry and repeat the spraying. Let it dry again. Sprinkle a little more lime over the mix and stir it in. It is ready to use. If you want to get really picky, sieve the mix through a 1/4" mesh. I didn't and just broke up the largest chunks by pinching them.
Hmmmmm................I think I'll wait till you make up a batch to sell. Please put me at the top of the list :D
Brent - What if we waited too long and there is no longer any sun? :roll: Are we doomed to wait until next summer to have this made up? Would putting it in the oven on warm do the trick? Not hot enough to pseudo-fire, but just warm enough to get the water to evaporate?
I have this now in 3-4 tanks and so far it works very well. It still baffles my mind how different it acts compared to soil, moss, or anything I have tried. First it seems to dry quickly but yet is still moist. The leaves over it dry rather fast and do not seem to brake down as fast. So far the frogs are doing well on it and as stated it seems to promote a good balance of critters.

Now the only negative I have is that it can be a royal pain to make. I have been thinking about renting or buying a small cement mixer to try to make a larger batch, but have not had the time. As for the drying I use 3 mid sized rubber maid containers which I then place a window fan over. I use this to dry it over night then repeat the fortifier and drying. Getting it into smaller granuals can also be tough but again so far its working well.

One modification I have is that I am using coco bedding in place of local soil as I do not have a place that I trust to be clean.
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