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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well today i have called it quit on my 40 gallon acrylic tank, the bottom continues to leak even after getting weld-on. And my cuban tree frog died! :( he has been acting sickly latly idk what happend 100%.

So now that i am not gonna have a 40 gallon, I would like to just set up at least one tank. I have a 10 gallon and i would like to set it up horizontally, prob for some auratus. I would like to know what is the best morat or cement for the cheapest? If i find a another 10gallon at a reasonable price i would like to make a vert. does any one have a site or write up on making a vert. easy?

I am just really discouraged at this point so any advice or help would be appriciated.
Thanks,
Tom
 

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How did your Cuban die anyway?

Where did you find the Weld-On, I went to Home Depot and nobody could tell me, as I need it to attach acrylic piano hinges (I hate using silicone for them).

Personally, I think 20 gallons are better because you will lose head room when you add a drainage layer. If you found some way to drill the bottom, which I doubt you will be able to, you can have a shorter drainage layer. I tried to get mine drilled, but I was told ten gallons have tempered bottoms.

I am not fond of false bottoms, as my pumps always get clogged, but they are cheap and easy to make.

That is why I have thrown out the 10 gal vert because I would want to drill the back so I can route my waterfall through it. While I could drill the side for a drain, I would have trouble getting the return line back, unless I wanted to have an ugly bit of tubing coming back up.

Plus, my local aquarium shop charges TWENTY BUCKS for a SINGLE hole.
 

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The following thread will be posted under the Parts heading.

In my opinion, drilling glass on the 'side' of an aquarium is very doable on 10 and 20 gallon tanks. Just make sure that the glass is not tempered. I had never attempted it before now and cranked out 15 holes of various sizes with no problems. You need patience and should proceed very slowly in terms of the drill speed. I start with a fast drill speed to get the hole started and reduce it almost immediately. The amount of pressure placed on the drill is almost none existent. Depending on the drill you use, the weight alone tends to be enough to bore a hole. It takes about 10 - 15 minutes per hole, which seems like an eternity.

The prices of everything needed starts to add up, but it would cost you close to $30 a hole from an aquarium store. Many do not offer such services.

Refer to Ben's site under the 'Building Vivariums' heading for further instruction:

http://www.thechocohut.com/

Here's what you need and where to get it:

1. For drains to fit a 1/2" Bulkhead, I use:
1 1/4" diamond core drill bit = $30.95

2. For Rainmaker misting heads, I use:
3/8" diamond core drill bit = $16.95

3. 1/2" Bulkheads = $4.40
w/a purchase of 10 or more

4. Craftsman Drill Guide from sears = $26.99 w/out tax.

I got both of the drill bits from the first internet site under the 'drill bits' heading, the bulkheads from the second website listed and the drill guide from the third:

1. http://www.shopsmartxpress.com/AmeriGls/MAIN.htm
2. http://www.aquaticeco.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/product.detail/iid/6843/cid/1860
3. http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00967173000

Sincerely,

David

Rain_Frog said:
If you found some way to drill the bottom, which I doubt you will be able to, you can have a shorter drainage layer. I tried to get mine drilled, but I was told ten gallons have tempered bottoms.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
amphibianfreak said:
10 gallons around here are about $9
At what store is that at? Every where i go its usually up to $20 for one.

Can i use quick-crete neat a water feature? I know lime would be an issue but can i just wash it a few times?

My cuban died because he wasn't eating and he wanted to try to hibernate i think. I got him when my one friend who works at Weis found him inside of some tropical looking flowers they just got shipped in. All he ever did any more since its starting to get cold is just lay down for days he would get really skinny and then every 3 days he would finally eat but just ingnoring the crickets up to this point. and he just didn't eat any more :(.

Thanks,
Tom
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks I will have to check them out then.

what about the quick-crete will that kill the frogs if its wet?

Thanks,
Tom
 

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Every now and then Meijer's will put their aquariums on sale really cheap. I have gotten tanks barely above wholesale cost there when they have a sale. I once bought like 6 20 H aquariums when they were less than $20 each.

Also check with your local pet stores and see if they will sell cracked tanks at a reduced price. Small cracks can easily be repaired or depending on the location, can be covered with background material.

Reptile shows are another great place to get cheap tanks. I have paid $2 for perfectly good 10 gallons that just needed to be cleaned out. Plus I seem to have good luck finding extra tall Perfecto tanks that I love to use.
 

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Dmartin, while you are full of good info about drilling, would you refrain from yelling please? Or, at least it seems like it :roll:

Anyway, yah, it was $20 a hole from my aquarium shop. they told me that the bottom of a 10 is tempered. Like I said, i would be drilling the side for a vert cage. However, I'd route the waterfall through the back, which was the original tempered bottom (considering the tank is now on its side). There would be no way to drill through it then.

I still say a 20 gallon tank is better.

Dude, don't give up on a 40 gallon! Just rough up around the crack and use GE silicone 2. It'll work good enough, enough to seal it. Just don't try and peal it, because it will with effort.

There's always the option of going to a hardware store and pay the extra money to custom build a glass tank. All you'll need are proper measurements and some GE silicone 2 doors and windows. It'll run a bit more expensive than just a 10 gallon, but it will be custom built and cheaper than a 20 gallon of equal size.
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Rain_Frog said:
Dmartin, while you are full of good info about drilling, would you refrain from yelling please? Or, at least it seems like it :roll:

Anyway, yah, it was $20 a hole from my aquarium shop. they told me that the bottom of a 10 is tempered. Like I said, i would be drilling the side for a vert cage. However, I'd route the waterfall through the back, which was the original tempered bottom (considering the tank is now on its side). There would be no way to drill through it then.
Rainfrog,
Dmartin needed to stress that tempered glass can't be drilled.
As far as 10's having tempered bottoms, it's BS. I have drilled a lot of 10 gallons and put holes in every side and the bottom. What store is this?
If you want tanks drilled, email me, I can save you tons of money.
In this thread [urlhttp://www.dendroboard.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=4808]Drilling glass[/url] I posted a link to the All Glass tech page.
 

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Rain Frog,

I'll refrain from yelling if you refrain from using 'dude'. Just kidding. :wink: Just to let you know I edited my posts above because I don't want to hurt your ears. One of the first things to get lost when you're trying to convey a message online is the true feeling behind what you are writing. What someone else interprets it to mean could, quite frankly, be the opposite of what the author is trying to say. Lost in translation. Believe me, if I was yelling, you would know it. Let's just call it unbridled enthusiasm. :twisted:

Cheerio mate,

David


Rain_Frog said:
Dmartin, while you are full of good info about drilling, would you refrain from yelling please? Or, at least it seems like it :roll:

Anyway, yah, it was $20 a hole from my aquarium shop. they told me that the bottom of a 10 is tempered. Like I said, i would be drilling the side for a vert cage. However, I'd route the waterfall through the back, which was the original tempered bottom (considering the tank is now on its side). There would be no way to drill through it then.

I still say a 20 gallon tank is better.

Dude, don't give up on a 40 gallon! Just rough up around the crack and use GE silicone 2. It'll work good enough, enough to seal it. Just don't try and peal it, because it will with effort.

There's always the option of going to a hardware store and pay the extra money to custom build a glass tank. All you'll need are proper measurements and some GE silicone 2 doors and windows. It'll run a bit more expensive than just a 10 gallon, but it will be custom built and cheaper than a 20 gallon of equal size.
 

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Tom,
I agree do not give up on the 40 gallon, can you actually see the leak or is it a bad seal in the seam? You should be able to fix either of these issues with the enclosure.

I just got some fronts for my for my vertical 15H tanks from FCA and they are great!!!!!!! I used to make all mine, but I'm done and will just use these from now on!

You got some good information in this thread, but this is just my opinion: for your first tank don't worry about drilling the glass, mortar and some kind of water feature that is run with a pump. You opened this thread aying that you were discouraged, why add the risk of breaking the glass, sealing the mortar or having a pump malfunction to the list of potential issues with the enclosure. You can make a perfectly functional and aesthetically(sp) pleasing vivarium to house the auratus (or many other species) without adding these other things that could go wrong. A simple false bottom setup will work (either light panel or leca/hydroton) just make sure that you have a way to drain the excess water. A small corner "pond" area works well for this. I too would recommend a 20 high instead of the 10, it gives you a lot more options, especially with the type of plants you can use.
Get your fly cultures going, make a simple vivarium, add the frogs and enjoy them. Then add complexity to your next setup (you will start more!) You can use the 40 for that.

Ed
 

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And FWIW, Cuban tree frogs do not hibernate.

Ed
 
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