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Discussion Starter #1
Hello guys,

it would be nice, if someone could help me with my new Pleurothallis grobyi.
At first I mounted it on a permanently wet xaxim-area which was apperently to wet - it got black areas on the leafes - funghi from what I read.
Half a week ago I removed the very damaged leaves and mounted it on a dryer area which drys out, but I try to keep the sphagnum a bit moist and added ventilation.
The fungi-spead (black leaf-areas) stopped or at least slowed down. Now, I observed a new "behavoiur": Many of the leafs start to curl and fold along the leaf-axis.
I hope you can see it in the added foto.
What might be the problem? Humdity is around 80-90%, might drop to 70% some times. Temperature lays between 22 (ngiht) and 26 degree Celsius.
Could it be to much light?

295328
 

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Greetings,

That orchid is in too much sphagnum - I would pull it away from the bases of the leaves/petioles. As for the curling, that looks like the plant adjusting to a change in light. Since the leaves don't seem to be discolored, I don't think the issue is too much light. Rather, I think the plant is oriented to the light differently in its new spot and is trying to redirect its solar panels (aka leaves) toward the light.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
As for the curling, that looks like the plant adjusting to a change in light. Since the leaves don't seem to be discolored, I don't think the issue is too much light. Rather, I think the plant is oriented to the light differently in its new spot and is trying to redirect its solar panels (aka leaves) toward the light.
sounds legit

Well for the sphagnum: It is a newly planted tank and the areas in the upper half are drying very fast out at the moment. The sphagnum drys nearly fully out during the night. I was afraid it would be to dry at the moment. These species also seems to have only small root, which where fully covered and rooted in sphagnum when it arrived. But I will try it with less sphagnum

Thanks!
 

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Greetings again. To be clear: The roots can be in sphagnum - but you have added extra sphagnum that is also touching the leaf bases and can cause them to rot.

Also note: Periods of dryness are what prevent mosses and fungi from out-competing comparatively slow-growing plants like orchids. As long as the roots growing against the substrate have adequate moisture, it can actually be beneficial for the surface of the sphagnum to dry between waterings.

That said, your viv looks very dry in the picture - too dry. You need to mist more and check your daily temps (hotter tanks dry more quickly). You want to strike a balance: The viv should never become fully dry - it should always have enough moisture to keep things barely moist. In your case, the wood and fern bark should be kept a little darker (darkness being a proxy for moisture) than it looks in your picture. The viv should also not stay wet. Non-aquatic plants do not wants their leaves to be constantly wet and the wood, for instance, should not stay slick for very long after you water.

Most orchids do not grow in balls of sphagnum - and the small orchids we favor for our vivs often grow on tree trunks that drain and dry quickly. Their roots are more often exposed than covered. In a properly watered viv, a P. grobyi growing on orchid bark should need no more than a few strands of sphagnum if it needs any at all..
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for your advice! I was very successful growing and propagating neoregalias (but not flowering). So I am now trying to go a little bit further and this is my first orchid-try.
It is a new viv. And without much growing in, I really have problems to hold the upper half moist - i must admid (80 cm height). Thats also the reason I used so much sphagnum.
I had this problem with my first viv, too. But know - after 2 years growing in - it isn't a problem anymore. But it was to moist for this orchid I guess - even without sphagnum - the xaxim there didn't dryed out and the orchid got black spots on the leafs.
 
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