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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Im now running my water area in my paludarium. Its about 10 gallons of water 7-8 usable for fish and plants. Tested my water ph and its running at about 6.7-6.8 ish. Damn color chart is kind of hard to read. :rolleyes: Wanted to ask the experts about the range I should be trying for. I have been told the the water ph is a big deal for the growth for the aquatic plants. Im hoping for plants that will grow out above the water and some mosses. This tank is more for the plants and what they need will be what I base what kind of fish I get for the tank. I know thats kind of back-ass-wards to what most people do for tanks but I really enjoy the plants as much as the animals but fish Im kind of ambivalent to. They are more to add to the tank than a center idea.
 

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Just look for a change in PH. In my brother's rock wall build, that's what we did. For instance, if the water you are about to put into your viv has a ph 7.2, but after being in your viv for 24 hours it has a ph of 8.4, they your rock wall is still leaching and should not be considered safe.
If it starts at 7.2 and in 24 hours it is reading 7.2, then you are safe and ready to proceed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Water has been in the tank for over 24hrs. Put it in yesterday with the fluorite gravel. I did the vinegar bath for a week with my grout work but then I sealed all the water flow areas with 100% silicone just to be safe. I'll test tomorrow to do a double check... but what ph level is the ideal for aquatic plants?
 

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plants are usually not incredibly picky about pH, but generally neutral to slightly hard is ideal, you could throw a little buffer in there if its going to keep you up at night :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
lol you know it might! I get up in the middle of the night sometimes to check pumps and heaters just to make sure things are running they way they should. Last thing I need to worry about at 3am is water quality. I would be up and running tests if I did.

Thanks for clearing that up. Last person I talked to made it sound like live aquarium plants would root if the ph was out of range for a few hours. I should have known better. :)

Now I just need to figure out what plants to do. :confused:
 

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Sarah,

Be a little careful...ph and hardness aren't the same thing. One, ph, is a measure of acidity/alkalinity of water. Hardness is a measure of the mineral content in the water. They're not the same.

Your question of what should you be shooting for is entirely dependent on what types of plants and fish you want to keep. Some fish (angelfish, tetras, blue rams, etc.) like soft acidic water, and as you would expect, the plants where those fish live like the same water.

Other fish, cichlids from lake Tanganyika or Malawi for example, like hard alkaline water...and as you would expect, the plants from those lakes like that water.

If you have used peat in your substrate it will tend to drive the ph of your water down...probably why you are at 6.7-6.8. Many areas in South/Central America have soft acidic water. There are numerous plants that like this kind of water...Cryptocorynes, Anubias, and Echinodorus, which includes the "sword plants" you see in fish stores.

Hope this helps.


lol you know it might! I get up in the middle of the night sometimes to check pumps and heaters just to make sure things are running they way they should. Last thing I need to worry about at 3am is water quality. I would be up and running tests if I did.

Thanks for clearing that up. Last person I talked to made it sound like live aquarium plants would root if the ph was out of range for a few hours. I should have known better. :)

Now I just need to figure out what plants to do. :confused:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
well shoot. I got at least one plant you listed but I dont know about the others...

this was the list I ordered. Should be here later this week.

My order is....
x2 Riccia Fluitans 3"x2" portion
CRYPTOCORYNE WENDTII 'RED'
x3 DWARF SAGITTARIA SUBULATA
RED TIGER LOTUS, NYMPHAEA (ZENKERI) 'RED'

Not all of this is for the one tank. I plan on spiting up the more than one items and putting it in my vampire crab tank as well. I have a co2 injector but im not sure I'll need it.

I'm going to the fish store tomorrow and picking up some cycle and I was going to get some tank fertilizer but idk if I need it. I have fluorite now and all the drainage from the dry soil layer.
 

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I don't think your water will be the limiting factor in your plant choices....and I wouldn't hesitate to try any of those you mentioned in a paludarium.

My biggest concern would be getting enough light to them. Some of them prefer a lot of light. Remember that your light intensity is inversely proportional to the square of the distance from the light source. Your light also has to travel through your glass top and then penetrate the water surface and column.

well shoot. I got at least one plant you listed but I dont know about the others...

this was the list I ordered. Should be here later this week.

My order is....
x2 Riccia Fluitans 3"x2" portion
CRYPTOCORYNE WENDTII 'RED'
x3 DWARF SAGITTARIA SUBULATA
RED TIGER LOTUS, NYMPHAEA (ZENKERI) 'RED'

Not all of this is for the one tank. I plan on spiting up the more than one items and putting it in my vampire crab tank as well. I have a co2 injector but im not sure I'll need it.

I'm going to the fish store tomorrow and picking up some cycle and I was going to get some tank fertilizer but idk if I need it. I have fluorite now and all the drainage from the dry soil layer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Okay the light requirements I saw listed on them all was low-med. I understand that they could have been fudging this to get them to sell. Seems lots of places will do that. FOr light I have 2 18w 10000k HO T5's on the tank BUT the light is about 2 foot to the water. The room the tank is in does get a lot of light. Its in the walk way between my kitchen and the dinning room. Between the two rooms 8 65k cfls and a window. Hoping that will help.
 

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My opinion:

Riccia fluitans - high light for wider thallus and emersed growth, mod light results in submerged balls (not uninteresting)

Cryptocoryne wendtii - high light will result in compact growth and "red" color, med light will result in tall and lanky and less "red" color

Nymphaea zenkeri - mod light submersed leaves, low light will result in floating leaves

Sagittaria subulata - low light

but my opinion is worth what you paid for it :)
 

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My 220g is 2 feet deep. I had four 60w cfls and four 40w fl bulbs. I get riccia to grow on top of sphagnum in one spot. I filled in my pond to create a bog, but I doubt it would have been enough light to penetrate into a water column. I do get a nice burgundy color in some generic broms I got from Lowes near the top of my tank.

I just bought 2 100w cfls to replace 2 of the 60w and I'll see what that does for me. Shoot me a PM on the status of your plants after awhile...I'm genuinely curious, and I'll let you know whether my new lights get my plants where I want them.
 
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