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I bought a baby whites tree frog, 3 days ago, and put a table spoon of calcium with D3 in the entire container on 100 crickets 😨 since then I have been having anxiety about him because I have read your frog can O.D from too much calcium. The crickets are all dead, and my frog has been brown for a day and a morning so far, he was a blue green teal color. I'm not 100% sure exactly how old he is, I plan to call the pet store today to find out. He was all over his enclosure last night so he doesn't seem super off other then his color.
I'm hoping I haven't done anything detrimental, or that it's not to late to correct this. I now know you need to seperate the crickets your going to feed for dusting. Also unsure how much powder to use.
If he dies I'll be absolutely devastated.
The temperature fluctuated yesterday in his enclosure as well, and kept getting almost up to 90, so I won't be using his light, could that also be a reason for him to have turned brown?
He turned brown the day he came home, then spent the next day a brilliant color and seemingly pleased and comfortable to yesterday being brown all day and brown this morning.
I have no
 

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Dusting all crickets with appropriate supplement powder is the standard proven recommendation from reptile nutritionists, based on decades of success with such practices and empirical calculations of the calcium to phosphorus ratio of insects so dusted. I am not aware of any documented calcium overdose cases from properly dusting insect prey (though I'd be interested in links to documented cases if anyone provides them). I cannot find any discussion of hypercalcemia in Maders Reptile and Amphibian Medicine; it simply is wildly uncommon. On the other hand, calcium deficiency kills many thousands of captive herps each year, and I'd wager is in the top three reasons herps need vet treatment.

Prey needs to be dusted immediately before feeding the prey to the frog, so only dust as many crickets as you're going to immediately feed. (The rest should be held in a clean large cage with access to carrots, potatoes or fruit for water, and some sort of dry food -- veggie fish food flakes work well.) You should use as much supplement powder as sticks to the prey -- no less since that isn't enough, and no more since it simply won't stick and will be wasted. Supplement dust is self-regulating in this regard.

Frogs need a supplement that has all the necessary vitamins and minerals -- Repashy Calcium Plus is the best one, and most others aren't adequate. Simple Calcium with D3 is not sufficient, and should be replaced immediately.

See here for more info on supplementation.

Supplementary heating is best controlled by a thermostat, preferably a quality model like Herpstats.
 
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