Setup:
This is a very basic set up. It is the 18x18x18 exoterra cube. I replaced the screen top with a full piece glass, and drilled 5 holes (3 in front, 2 in back) in the glass that are 5/8" diameter. I covered 4 of these with noseeum mesh. The fifth has a 1/2" hose plumbed from the ultrasonic humidifier. The base is then a 4" gravel layer with a 1" layer of orchid grade sphagnum moss. I had originally covered the styrofoam background with coco dust and silicone when it was set up for pumilio. The foam background is great for easily attaching orchid mounts with hooks. The drainage layer of gravel is important for any potted orchids you are placing in your grow out orchidarium. For lighting, all i have on this setup (to reduce heat) is 2 CF 13 watt 6500k bulbs. These have been working well for me, however in the future I will be swapping out all my bulbs for the 10000k LED high outputs (when they get better or when I have time to build my own setup). So this is a VERY simple orchidarium. As mentioned, i did just add a 2" fan for constant circulation when the lights are on. The humidifier is on a random timer, and will turn on twice a day for 30minutes at a time. I have been growing orchids like this for quite some time.
To answer other questions, mostly for those of you that are on the edge of attempting orchids but have heard too many horror stories. The conditions we raise our frogs in are actually perfect for orchids, however this is not true for all orchids. Each orchid has to be selected for the personal requirements of each species. In general, pleurothallids, maxillarias, epidendroides, bulbophyllums all do well in a vivarium environment (80 - 95percent humidity). There are the few oddballs here and there that prefer dryer environments, like my Pleuro tonduzii, who is growing in a pot on my windowsill at 35% humidity and loving it.... Before I purchase an orchid, i do as much research as possible on the species i'm interested in: temp requirements (VERY important), light requirements (not as important), air flow (really important for lepanthes and other genera's), humidity, etc. My favorite resource for this information is
Internet Orchid Species Photo Encyclopedia.
Temperature: This is one of the most important factors. You can kill an orchid in a matter of a few hours to a few days if you have to HIGH of temperatures. Most of the families/generas listed earlier do best UNDER 80 degrees F. Most dracula's and masdevallia's can't even handle being over 70 degrees!!! If it is a cold or cool growing species based on orchidspecies.com, save them for someone who can keep them under 73degrees. if however it is rated at hot - cool, warm - cool, hot - warm, etc it is a great candidate for your vivarium. Keep in mind though, many species will only BLOOM in cooler temps, but may flourish as a plant in the upper 70's.
Lighting: I will have to re-do my light measurements I have performed in the past, as I did not write any of my findings down. As far as orchidspecies.com goes, they rate each plant based on 4 categories of light requirements: Full Sun, Bright, Shade, Full Shade. In a vivarium, this means something far different than what you would think. Full shade does not mean the plant wants to be in the blackest pit of your viv, and shade doesn't mean that the plant even wants to be shaded at all. On the contrary, i have found FULL SUN plants to be nearly impossible to grow in a viv, as they typically like much dryer conditions and unless your using Metal Halides, you may not be able to support the light requirement. So here is kind of how I base these requirements (which I will add measurements to later).
Bright: right under your lights at the top of the tank. I have 200 watts roughly of 6500k compact fluorescent lights on my 115gal viv, and within 2-6inches of this is my Bright orchid zone.
Shade: in the same vivarium, this would be in the 6 - 10 inch range from the light source. (in measuring light from my CF's, every inch or two significantly reduces the foot candles that the plant will receive)
Full Shade: 8" - 20" from lights. I have been successful in placing full shade plants higher up in the tank as long as another plant provides some shading for it.
Now in the Exo terra orchidarium, I am only growing shade and full shade rated plants (orchidspecies.com). The top row of mounts are typically the shade plants, and i will place the full shade plants underneath them. Feel free to PM me if you further wish to discuss lighting and temp of orchids or need help deciding where to place your orchids
.
Humidity and watering: Orchids are SUCCULENTS. However, they can do great even if they have a root base that stays moist (MOIST not WET) at all times. There are also those that have to have a marked dry period to grow. Stay away from these plants
, those are the ones that will die after seemingly doing great. (most COMMON dendrobiums fall into that group, as well as phalaenopsis hybrids, vanda alliance, and many other more common groups). All of the species I work with come from areas typical of having a wet season and a really wet season
. As long as they are not sitting in stagnant water, they will do great! I typically mount most with their root base wrapped in orchid grade sphagnum moss, and then use a hook to stick them to foam background, or fishing line to strap them to cork/branch/wood. NEVER plant an orchid into soil or a non draining pot (like a mesh pot in your GS background. They can handle the moisture of moss, but not standing water at all.
N E way, i've got things to do, so if you would like more information or tips on how I grow orchids, pm me or post up on this thread asking questions. I have finally hit my 100 species mark and have only lost 3 species in the past year or so! so I must be getting something right...
Ed Parker
