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Look again. Large terrariums with lots of horisontal branches and plants. Thermostats to controll day/nigt temps, automated misting, waterproof lighting, air-switcher to the room for fresher air.

You might miss the nice background, but reptiles like these dont care about those, only the factors that actually affect their lives.

These are arboreal animals, right? It does not matter how much volume or space you have if the animal can't use it. The only real area you can really count as living area for these snakes are their branches. You have two...

You can get all defensive, or you can take advice from prooven keepers of this species.
Not sure how I am missing those pics but I don't see any of those on his site..I see small pics with a couple of sticks and a few vines maybe.. In the picture You put down as not being Optimal I see plenty of space for the Sanke to crawl around plus other structures where they could crawl also. I see lights outside the Tank. I see plumbing in the Upper corner which I assume is for fogging the Tank

I am not being defensive I was just asking what you consider Optimal..

People will always consider different things better or worse than others.

Breeders will consider other factors than what a person who showcases their animals along with the Display and not breed.

Again I did not see any of those features in any of the Videos..Just a dark video of a snake close up in one and the other 1 I had trouble loading but will watch again

I am not a snake mind reader so I will not assume it does not bother them to just have sticks to crawl on and hang from. However I can say I see snakes that are more active and seem happier when they have a More Natural setting than an empty box with closet rods to hang onto.
 

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Look at this
YouTube - MrCaninus's Channel

And tis
YouTube - MrCaninus's Channel

These cages are about one kubic meter. There are lots of branches and they are long. A lot of foliage.

You can say its bland, but you have to differ between functionality and looks. These snakes basically dont "move around" on anything other than branches. Sick snakes, ill somehow, can be seen on the ground or other surfaces.

I know all about breeders, the US have som very good breeders with criminally sickening cages, just to get as much breeding material into as little space as possible. Here is a link to that too
YouTube - BHB rock python

There is a nice industry...

I dont see breeding succsee as being the same as having an optimal environment in most cases. The secret to caninus is a good functional environment though. You cant put these in small boxes like you can with other snakes. So with caninus, breeding success is a good sign of doing something right.

Noone have to take my word for it, but Im telling you that that snake could have a much more optimal terrarium. I get no satisfaction from lying about that.
 

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Your swedish is excellent ;) thosa are indeed adult and juvenile cages, respectively.

He has about ten adults and a lot of juveniles, so these are not all the cages, probably just the most available to shoot at the time.

Edit: I never ment to hijack the thread with this, I consider this my last say in this matter. I only meant well, knowing these snakes are a bit vulnerable when it comes to husbandry. Take my advice or leave it, I wont say any more about this.
 

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I definately agree American Breeder definately less than he does.

I see you beat me to posting better links to his cages..

The first link looked so bland compared to the better links..

and they are beautiful specimens.. I have been Considering getting one because of their colorization and patterns plus they don't get huge.

I have a cage 72" H x 72" W x 30" D. I need to decide what to do with
 

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Your swedish is excellent ;) thosa are indeed adult and juvenile cages, respectively.

He has about ten adults and a lot of juveniles, so these are not all the cages, probably just the most available to shoot at the time.
Actually I just guessed :)
 

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Here is a pic of a tank I just finished for my basin.

I had done stuff like this before but find the tile grout easier to work with than GFRC.

Thanks HX.
Thanks for sharing.

Very nice job with both the stone and the stump. The irregularity makes it nice and natural. You have also filled in with nice masses towards low front instead of just making a plane to the backwall. A lot of people consider it waste of space, but I think it really makes the difference. There is no waste of space, only too small tanks. No pun intended...
I wouldn't worry about the monotonity of the color of the stone. In terrariums kept humid the grout gets more tones from organic waste/life eventually.
I often find the organic coloring much more naturalistic than trying to add many colors to the grout.

Again, good job.
 

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Believe it or not, But I started, small scale though. Borrowed a mini terrarium from a friend, I guess he will get a surprise when I give it back...

I will post pictures and methodes later, maybe this night (sweden) or tomorrow, showing the first few steps and materials.

/ J
 

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Ok, so... Im not sure how to post pictures, but I'll give it a go.

This first project is not focused on the result of the background itself, Im more interested in the process and technique of getting a nice colored surface and structure of the "stone", that is why I have gone for cheaper materials and not really aiming for the "high-end" products perhaps.

Basically I just glued some pieces of cheap styrofoam in place, making a rough estimate of what I might be looking for. I then carved out a structure that I wanted. I was highly inspired by some pictures I have seen here, so don't be offended if it looks like i tried to copy anyone.



I found this product called Hey'di K11. It comes with an acrylic polymer and the product is approved for usage where it is in contact with drinking water (at least in Norway), so it seemed like a safe choise.



I primed the styrofoam with some of the polymere diluted with a little water. I just sprayed it on with a simple spray/mist bottle. The cement (I will just call it cement as it is not quite grout I think) stuck to the styrofoam really well after that, even if I just used a rough brush to brush on a thin mixture as a first layer.
I also added som red pigment in the mix, just to see the effect, it gave a nice brick colored result.
I used a fan to speed up the drying a bit.



When dried you can see that some areas are a bit more glossy, that is from a batch of mixture with slightly more acrylic polymeres in it, and the matte areas had a bit less.
The bottle to the left is glögg, or mulled wine - a must this time of year.



Next I made a thicker mix, and just to be able to se a difference between the different layers I added som darker colors. I tried using a cheap acrylic air brush paint I had laying around.



This mix was stuffed into the deeper and larger crevices only. I choose to do this as one separate step as it is much harder to get in there and I wanted to ensure that these parts got the thicknes and strength that I want. All the carved cracks and crevices were done so excessively, to leave room for a layer of cement.



I bought a nice palette knife for this project. I actually sharpened the sides of it so I could use it to cut the styrofoam as well as shaping the cement and carving it as it started to cure.



On the side I did a test with different mixtures of sand/pigment/polymere and a repetition of those to be wet-cured (those under the plastic), just to see if I can see any differences in strength etc.




While taking these pictures my sweet Sanzinia looked at me like I was crazy, and Im not going to disagree...



Next I will be adding the final layer(s) and trying to get the fine details that I want. As this is such a small scale, the effect of loosing detail in the styrofoam when cement is added is really high, so I ecpect I will have to do a bit ov fine-tuning If I want any details at all.
 

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Im not sure what you mean with "bit rough for frogs", but I assume you would think it would be rough on their skin or something similar to that?

The thing is that physics appear different to different sized animals. The air a bumble bee flies in would compare to flying in something with the wiscosity of water for us. What makes a rough surface to us does not have to be so to an animal small as a frog.
I dont think the grout makes a much rougher environment to the frogs than anything that nature could expose them to.

Hopefully there are not just grout in the terrarium in the end, but other substrates, moss, plants etc. as well.
 

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Understand and it used to be a no no to use gravel as it was too abrasive and woudl cause wounds on the frogs.

So I guess would sandless grout be a better option. Im still working on some fake things to attempt this on but am trying to lock down the items I need to buy. The local lowes does not have a lot of options in grout and less in sandless. Im thinking about trying gray with black to see how it goes. I have a decent fake stump started but have not had a lot of free time to work on it. I also need to pickup a torch.
 

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Kyle I've always used unsanded grout/cement mixtures. The resulting surface is somewhere between limestone and river rock . . . smooth but "bumpy". I've had frogs in these enclosures for over 2 years now with no obvious ill effects . . .
 

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hello, this is the update of the constrution of my 3d background.
1st
glue all the pieces together.

2nd
I used a neutral clay to give a 3d texture and close some gaps.

notice that i have removal parts for the cleaning.

Next step is paint and adding some roots.
cumps.
 

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hi
here it goes:

I hope u like it. I'm gone change the placement of some rots, and i'm adding realistic fake moss cause i'm gone use led ilumination.
cumps
 

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The foam or the grout? I like using a torch (outside or in the garage) on the foam and a dremmel on the cement.
+1 on the torch and definitly outside, did a little bit of work inside once during winter and WOAH never again!!

May have been asked before but what brand are you using matt? The local HD stopped carrying what i have been using and this new stuff is not working to great for me. Just built a new tank and the grout is cracking and ive never had this issue before.

Also are you using epoxy or what to cover your work?

Sorry if these questions have been asked before but ALOT of pages to read and maybe i should of just PMed you
 

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No worries! I've actually started a new method - one that I have not yet seen anywhere. I'm currently documenting it - it will be for an african cichlid tank. PM me if you want the details - I don't really want to post it until I finish trying it myself. It's the same method I used on my rock wall backgrounds in my "mini-zoo" . . . it is VERY strong though . . . and cheap! :D

What I've been using prior to this though is just a polymer modified floor leveling cement. The brand really doesn't matter - typically they are acrylic or latex - both are relatively inert. I have not sealed any of my walls and so far they are holding very well. I have not noticed anywhere on any of them. In fact my first wall, which is now well over two years old, has all kinds of mosses and other flora growing on which I don't believe would have occurred (to this extent anyhow) if all the pores had been sealed with epoxy etc . . .
 

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Great thread, you guys did some beautiful work!
I didn't see this link posted, but this guys website was particularly helpful. He makes videos showing the process step by step. His work is geared more for lizard enclosures but the principal is still the same. There is one video where he made a pretty amazing waterfall which I found very helpful.

Lizard care, and fake rock wall landscapes
 
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