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145 Posts
Looks nice 
I usually only see springtails, and notice isopods when I lift up leaves.Once the springtail/isopod populations have grown, how easy should it be to see them around the vivarium? I had seen somewhere that people could see a "wave" of their springtails at the water table line in their drainage layer. Mine hasn't accumulated enough water for that yet, so as far as that goes, I can't see them there. I know the isopods are in there, but again, just can't see them very easily.
I had a bunch of mold for the first 1-2 weeks. The springtails started to get rid of it after that. It also depends on the wood you used. Some woods get mold really easily and will need to be replaced in the humid environment. Some do fine. You’ll just have to wait and seeI know that mold is a normal part of a cycling vivarium, but should I be concerned about the mold that's starting to cover the upper piece of wood in my set up? You can somewhat see it in the last picture I posted. Even if the springtails are still in there somewhere doing well under the substrate, I don't think they're going to climb their way up to that wood and eat that mold.
No.2) I know that mold is a normal part of a cycling vivarium, but should I be concerned about the mold that's starting to cover the upper piece of wood in my set up?
Looking good so far!Anyone have any good recommendations for vines/hanging plants that would do well in this enclosure? I was hoping to maybe drape/hang some off of that knob on the "bridge" piece of wood that's attached to the hardscape/glass.
Thank you so much, I really appreciate it. If I were to say screw it and keep the orchid in there in futility, should I try to mount it, or does it need anything specific around the roots? I also have that little nook up there that I could put some kind of material on to surround it. I tried to find some posts about this, but partially due to my uncertainty of the specific variety, I haven't been able to find anything.Everything is looking healthy so far, but there are a few important changes to make. You're gonna want to pull that ivy out right now, before it roots and completely takes over the tank. And the Cattleya should be in the furthest spot from where you have it - as close to the lights as possible, somewhere it dries off quickly, and not planted in soil. I don't think the Cattleya will do well long-term - there are Cattleya hybrids that will stay small enough for a vivarium, but probably not ones that you would find at Lowe's, and Cattleyas generally want to be watered only once a week and really thoroughly dry off in between. They also need a lot of light, more than your average vivarium light will produce and probably more than dart frogs would be comfortable with.
There are many orchids that would do better in this environment, stay smaller, and would be much more likely to bloom for you, such as Epidendrum porpax and Dinema polybulbon. That being said if you want to keep the Catt in there, tie/pin it to the branches somewhere and do not put anything around the roots. Most vivarium orchids would appreciate some sphagnum moss under their roots, but you want to try to keep this as dry as possible. By the way, if it was labelled "compact" it's probably some kind of SLC, which means it has a mix of Sophronitis, Laelia and Cattleya in its genetics. There are species of straight Sophronitis that can be grown in vivs (cernua is probably the best bet), and some mini hybrids with a lot of Sophronitis in their blood - but they're not "beginner" orchids.Thank you so much, I really appreciate it. If I were to say screw it and keep the orchid in there in futility, should I try to mount it, or does it need anything specific around the roots? I also have that little nook up there that I could put some kind of material on to surround it. I tried to find some posts about this, but partially due to my uncertainty of the specific variety, I haven't been able to find anything.
Also, appreciate the reroute, hahah - noob to threads as well
There are many orchids that would do better in this environment, stay smaller, and would be much more likely to bloom for you, such as Epidendrum porpax and Dinema polybulbon. That being said if you want to keep the Catt in there, tie/pin it to the branches somewhere and do not put anything around the roots. Most vivarium orchids would appreciate some sphagnum moss under their roots, but you want to try to keep this as dry as possible. By the way, if it was labelled "compact" it's probably some kind of SLC, which means it has a mix of Sophronitis, Laelia and Cattleya in its genetics. There are species of straight Sophronitis that can be grown in vivs (cernua is probably the best bet), and some mini hybrids with a lot of Sophronitis in their blood - but they're not "beginner" orchids.
Oh, in that case, the smaller version is just younger - probably 3 years or more from blooming - not actually a more compact plant. Standard Cattleyas easily get 12+" tall and wide, with multiple 4-6" flowers.View attachment 313207
I think it was this one, just the smaller 2 in version like the ones above
Ah. I will definitely keep looking into the other ones you mentioned then, haha. I have patience for cycling the viv, but maybe not that muchOh, in that case, the smaller version is just younger - probably 3 years or more from blooming - not actually a more compact plant. Standard Cattleyas easily get 12+" tall and wide, with multiple 4-6" flowers.
Since you mentioned this, I noticed the same little wisps around the base of this brom. You can't see them in the pic, but you can see that little white fuzzy spot which is new and is where they are. Should I be concerned/move/clean this brom? Of all of them, I had been waiting to see how this one would do because it does not get nearly as much water - cup is not full, leaves don't have drops on them.I can already see threads in the pic that look like mold and it may have root damage that will make it susceptible to a fungal or bacterial infection.