Dendroboard banner
1 - 20 of 23 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
829 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After breaking 6 pieces of glass (yeah...... I'm lucky my husband works at a cabinetry shop where we were only spending a couple dollars a piece!) I decided to go for something that was safer for me, and the kids/animals in the house.
I saw some people were making vents using window screen, screen frame, corners and spline. So I made the screen section, then went to the fabric store and got thick vinyl used for making furniture/clothing covers. I then made another frame with the window screen kit, and pushed the vinyl into the gaps with the spline. Very light weight, very cheep, and most of all safe!
It's heavy enough that I haven't had my azureus pushing it up. but I did tape the back of the vinyl lid to the back of my tank to be safe. I've had mine on the tank under my t5 lights for around 5-6 months and my plants are flourishing. The vinyl is thick enough that it doesn't get deformed.

Screen frame- $4 for 7ft piece
Corners- $1.47 for a 4 pack
Spline- $4 for a roll, not sure how long it is
Vinyl- in reminants section of store- $1-$3


Thought it might help someone else who has issues with glass, but wants to make sure it's a nice tight fit top.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
829 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Very Creative and a nice solution to a problem. Way to think outside the box.:)
TY :)


Philsuma- sure, here are some pics.
I use this on my 55, 29 and 10 gallon tanks. The 10 gallon one isn't tightly on there as I have a cord beind the lid- but its just my tad tank for now. I couldnt get good pics of the 29 lid, but it's the same as the other 2.


 

·
Registered
Joined
·
829 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yeah sounds cool as long as nothing falls on it - is it the totally clear one so that it allows the light through?
I've actually had quite a few things fall on it, most things just bounce off of it from the tension. The thing I've like the most about it is it actualy discourages my cats from getting up there. They don't like that it doesn't feel stable, so they leave it alone. I still want to silicone or gorilla glue the spline in, but it's really tight in there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
829 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I lift off the front screen parts. They are not attatched to the vinyl section on the 55, but on the 29 and 10 they are taped together in the middle to make a hinge. I can also add vinyl to the screen section with velcro if I need to in the future to keep humidity up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
829 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
They do make vinyl with UV protection in it for Marine use- I made sure to purchase one that doesn't have the UV protection in it. So hopefully that means that it's not blocking any more UV than the normal glass would.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,661 Posts
It (UVB) helps with calcium absorption especially using calcium fortified clay substrates without D3, and there's anectdotal data of UVA and UVB helping in other areas - you would need the special UV bulbs though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,083 Posts
Those are some great ideas for building a viv, especially for those on a tight frog budget (like me), If you want to attach the screen panel to the glass lid, you can lay both pieces on some newspaper and run a bead of silicone glue in the gap that is thick enough to seal the gap, but not enough so that it is difficult to lift it and have it hold. I did the same thing on a 27 hex tank but I put way too much silicon and and I glued a wide piece of larger the hinge is much too tight.

If the dimensions of the cut glass are precise enough that you don't have to use the plastic strip that comes with aquarium lid kits for the back (the reason for this strip being developed was to keep fish from jumping out and to cut out shapes to accommodate electrical lines for power heads,the back of he lid), So, in order to make the lid to accommodate frog vivs, then your plastic front piece is ideal. Front ventilaton has the added advantage of keeping the front glass from fogging so much.

I have found recently that the Aqueon lids are about 1/4 inch too narrow, so that when you put it on, there is a suffcient space for thumbs or pulmilios to slip through between the lid and the lid and tank. To solve this problem with my latest 3 vivs, I took a narrow piece of weather stripping (the kind with two separate strips of adhesive running the length of the weather stripping). This is perfect for my applicaton one strip is applied to the plastic tank lid strip, and the second adhesive strip is applied to the inside recessed part of tank frame. The middle of the weathered stripping is not sicky and can also be used as a hinge. I haven't tried it for this purpose because I'm not sure how long it would last when the viv lid is opened up daily. However, in black, brown or white, is looks quite a bit better than duct tape. And, a roll of weatherstrippig is about $5 -$8, depending on the amount you purchase. I bought one smaller role for my latest vivs and I have used it on two 29-gal long (30 inches long), one 20-gal short (24 inches long), and I still have enough for another viv that is 30 inches long.

One last thing for you to consider. I use the plastic strip at the back of the lid to provide ventilaton. I do this by drilling holes every few inches and glue a strip of window screen long and wide enough to cover all the holes. Gorilla Glue is the best for this type of application because it requires a damp surface in order to cure properly. As a matter of fact, I have recently learned here on DB that Gorilla Glue is made of the same adhesive chemical as Great Stuff. If you look at the Gorilla Glue, it does slightly expand as it cures.

If you want active ventilaton, a simple aquarium air pump can be ruin through the weather stripping. Since the weather stripping is rubber, if you cut a small slit rather than cutting round hole. For power cords, it's best to cut a small "v" in the stripping at the ouside edge such that the power cord rests on the aquarium frame and the stripping can contract around the cord.

Sorry for the data dump, but I've made so many blunders over the years, first with reef tanks and now with dart frogs vivs, that I enjoy helping folks avoid my mistakes. If it was me, I'd have the glass lid such that the screen panel is wide enough so that you can work relativley easy inside the tank, meaning that the hinged part of the glass lid should be wide enough to work, but not so wide that you can't keep the humidity. I'd also suggest that you make the hinge strong enough to keep the lid closed and remain open wihout having to hold the lid in place while you work.

I hope this helps you and other who might read this.

BTW - that's a fantastic vivarium.

Good luck,

Jim
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
101 Posts
I'm glad you finally posted this awesome idea Kim! I made one as well with Kim's idea and it seems to work really well.

I questioned the light penetration as well but it seems the plants are still growing really well and that's all I was worried about.

Another bonus is it acts like a bass drum, lol, you can hold the assembly up and hit the corner to get some nice deep bass.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,083 Posts
Don't the CFL bulbs that are daylight bulbs (6,500k) provide some UV?
It (UVB) helps with calcium absorption especially using calcium fortified clay substrates without D3, and there's anectdotal data of UVA and UVB helping in other areas - you would need the special UV bulbs though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
829 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Jim,
Thanks for the info! The original glass lids I had did have the plastic strips to slip on the glass. I used them when my tank was an aquarium.
I love the idea about the weather stripping.
If I ever get to set up a misting system or fogger my plant was to cut holes in the vinyl and reinforce it with clear plastic strips from waterbottles. Then silicone it in place. As of right now I dont have any wires in the tank :)


JrayJ- LOL Interesting way to use the lid idea! :)

My bulb is a Current HO t5 54 watt bulb that came in my aquarium fixture. The one ballast blew in the fixture, so only one light works.
 
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top