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My anthonyi experience is limited (Santa Isabels and Rio Canario) - however, I always had the best success with leaving eggs in the viv and allowing the adults to transport them to a tadpole deposition pool (clear deli containers with low sides, empty coconut husks, etc.) From there I would pull the tads after a few weeks in the tank and raise the tads outside of the tank.

When you pull the tads, make sure to set them up in a container that allows them to easily get out when they start to morph. They seem to have a propensity to drown very easily, and often try to emerge from the water very soon after popping front limbs.
 

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I let the male transport the tads. I don't even keep a permanent water source in their tank. Once I notice the male is carrying the tads on his back I'll add a deli container with water in it. Tads are always deposited there.

I raise the tads in 190oz uncovered containers with leaves, java moss, some plant clippings. Morphing tadpoles will sit on top of the java moss, or even climb the up side of the container.

Be sure to have a couple springtail cultures going. I've noticed newly morphed froglets can be picky eaters, but then turn into eating machines and grow VERY quickly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks guys. They are Santa Isabels.
I went ahead and left the clutch in. I got my first clutch after having the group for about a week. 13 eggs.....8 good eggs and 5 bad eggs. I removed the bad eggs with tweezers from the clutch.

I'll have to set something different up for the tads when they morph. I'm used to tinctorius that hulk right up the container with no help.
 

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I'm going to mostly echo what's already been said. I raised over a hundred SI E. Anthonyi and had the best success pulling tads after they'd been deposited. I raised the tads communally in a modified 10G tank with indian almond leaves and water. They were fed Frog Bites and flaked fish food with a low protein content.

Be prepared for a lot of bad eggs and SLS. Keep your suppliments fresh. Also, females are a valuable quantity. Take care of her. Overbreeding leads to overstress and overstress can lead to death. After you get a couple good groups of tads, I'd seperate the female.

Have fun! Once they get going...look out!!
 

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Leave them...its your best bet. I work with a number of anthnonyi and tricolor species and when the eggs have been removed I have lost 75-100% of the clutch, but by leaving them I usually get about 90%or more that successfully hatch.

George
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks again guys.
They seem to be developing nicely. One dud and 7 good. There is visble movement now.

In you guys experience is it common for them not to breed while there is still a clutch in the tank? (btw they are a 2.2)
I still hear calling (though not as much) and most of the time the male thats responsible for the clutch is always guarding it. So I assume breeding will resume after that clutch has been transported.
 

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In your guys experience is it common for them not to breed while there is still a clutch in the tank? (btw they are a 2.2)
I still hear calling (though not as much) and most of the time the male thats responsible for the clutch is always guarding it. So I assume breeding will resume after that clutch has been transported.
That's my experience, no breeding from that male while he guards the eggs. They usually call all day long. When they don't, they're usually guarding eggs, or the humidity is too low.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks again.

The clutch hatched on 05/01/10. The male transported them in the morning and afternoon. He transfered 6 of the 7. One went missing in action.

I removed the water dish they were in and calling started right away.
Then boom....later in the evening....another clutch of 17.
 

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Don't let the female overbreed or you could lose her from the stress. I'd let them do a couple more clutches and then seperate her and give her some time to recover.
 
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