Dendroboard banner

Confused on spike moss care?

16846 Views 23 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  dartfrog2011
So I noticed a few threads about spike moss care and I see well drained yet humid... How is that accomplished? I would think it couldn't be humid if is well drained. This is my 4th attempt of keeping spike moss alive it always seems to melt. It doesn't turn brown just kind of darker green then melts slowly into dirt. I keep Crested geckos not frogs but they seem to like either high or low humidity right now i have a girl laying eggs in dirt so im keeping one tank very moist right now (no moss in there). Other 2 tanks I can play with humidity and moist or dry dirt. I mist tanks 2 times a day once in morning and once at night. Any tips would be great as I love the spike mosses color and love idea of my tank being all green. Using florescent coil 5.0 repti glo lights. Turn on at 9am and off at 10pm. Soil is a cocoanut husk broken down.

Thanks for any help.
1 - 4 of 24 Posts
1) First of all, if that is potting soil w perlite, lose it. It deteriorates in tanks and perlite can be hazardous if ingested. Use coir w an amendment (husks, orchid bark, tree fern, etc.)

2) Wet soil never compensates for low humidity; Humidity is a measure of moisture in the air. It affects how quickly the plant loses water through transpiration. Got a a hygrometer? What is the reading?

3) For selaginellas, humidity should be >60 percent. Contrary to pop belief, they do not need Java moss humidity, i.e., saturation. Even moisture, good humidity and they should establish quickly.

4) For example, here is S. uncinata growing in a shade garden in the Bronx, w Maidenhair fern, Hemiboea, Dwarf Mondo grass and Begonia grandis. Beer can for scale--should have used Tsing Dao or Sapporo:






It is deciduous here, in winter I cover it with pine branches.
See less See more
2
  • Like
Reactions: 1
Is your humidty naturally that high outside or do you have to do something to help maintain it?


Also I agree with the soil comment and somehow forgot to comment about that in my last post. DEFINITELY hazardous if ingested!
And yeah Id imagine the soil breaking down quicker than coir. If Im not mistaken don most potting soils use peat as a main ingredient? If so then yeah peat can break down fairly quick and can also hold TOO much moisture in it.


Todd
1) Here in NYC, I don't do a $#%@ thing--but bear in mind, many selaginellas take on a tighter, harder form grown outdoors. In shade it turns blue, but where exposed to some sun it turns reddish. I also grow your Saxifraga stolonifera, which, along with Mondo grass and Autumn fern, is evergreen. Everyone else is deciduous.

2) You are quite correct: Peat holds to much moisture, doesn't "breathe" enough, and breaks down quick--especially in warmer tanks. Perlite is not appropriate for vivaria, especially lizard tanks (as they may mistake it for calcium).
First, hi thee hence to the pet store and get a good book on Crested Geckos:

Rhacodactylus. by P. De Vosjoli, F. Fast and A. Repashy

Crested Geckos. by Adam Black.

Second, try 2/3 coir with 1/3 cypress mulch and/or seedling orchid bark (not heat treated).

Coir goes by names like Coco bedding.
First, hi thee hence to the pet store and get a good book on Crested Geckos:

Rhacodactylus. by P. De Vosjoli, F. Fast and A. Repashy

Crested Geckos. by Adam Black.

Second, try 2/3 coir with 1/3 cypress mulch and/or seedling orchid bark (not heat treated).

Coir goes by names like Coco bedding.
1 - 4 of 24 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top