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I have been trying to design a tank for dart frogs and i'm wondering, can the screen on top of the Exo Terra terrariums let fruit flys escape?:confused:
 

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Yeah punch out the screen and take the frame to a local glass cutter and have two pieces cut for the two sides. Then just use silicon to put the glass in and seal it.
 

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2 Pieces?

Nah I just saved the screen lid then I used a dremal (could use good wire cutters) to cut the little vertical pieces out of the top of the terrarium so I could lay a piece of glas in the rim of the terrarium.

I got 1/8" thick glass cut to size at a local glass shop for about $11.00
 

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I havent ever seen any escape through the mesh itself, only by the gaps where the lid clips onto the viv and the cable gaps at the back. Silicone up these gaps and in my experience you will be fine with flies escaping through the roof. (definitely if using hydei) They will escape through gaps in doors, possibly front vents etc though BUT I have seen pin head/hatchling crickets get through the wire mesh. One day i was looking at my viv and saw a cricket on top, so i went to get it but as i put my hand close it climbed back in the tank through the mesh and it then climbed back through the mesh ontop of the viv. So crickets can escape through it, just not flies in my experience. I do feed smaller flies (turkish gliders) but have never seen them escape through the mesh either though....
 

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I'll agree with auratusross. They get out typically from those little sliding-door thingies in the back. I mostly use wingless melo's, and they like to hang out at the bottom. As for the ones that get out, it won't be too long before an opportunistic spider will set up somewhere close by. If that doesn't bother you.

If you don't want to modify the lid, you can always use some polycarbonate panels from Lowe's (if you're lucky as I was, you can get a large "mis-cut" for cheap...I got a ~$60.00 panel for $5.00). I use the Lexan that is treated for UV radiation, and have not any problems with warping, discoloration, etc. Just cut it, and dremel the corners a little rounder, and slip them right into those depressions above the screen.
 

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if you are set on the screen top, get another piece and put it across so the wholes in the screen are cut in half by the extra piece on top. ace hardware cut and sold a piece of glass to me for 8.99. 16 3/4 x 16 3/4. solved the problem and helps with holding the humidity.
 

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I'll have to disagree with anyone who is using a whole screen top. They need more humidity. Whether the flies escape is secondary to the humidity factor. I use glass tops on all my tanks. It's hard to keep the humidity up if too much water is escaping, and it'll be harder in the winter!
 

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I agree glass might be what you need to do or you won't have enough humidity. Another thing you may try...when I didn't have money for glass I used clear plastic that I had laying around and laid it over the top and then clipped the mesh lid on top of that. Glass would allow better lighting though. Fruit flies would go in and out of the top and front vents for mine so you have to do some modifying. I have seen several threads on this very subject. You may be able to find some good info on it here on the site.
Logan
 

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And even if you don't have any plastic lying around....you can use saran wrap and just put that over it. It may look a little ghetto but it retains humidity levels well.
 

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Well my tank is the 36 x18x36 tall and i have the aluminum lightinh set up with the 35 watt halogens should i put glass under that to wont the heat from the hologens break the glass well i guess they are only 35 whatts but i dunno i may have to run an exspirment
 

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Well my tank is the 36 x18x36 tall and i have the aluminum lightinh set up with the 35 watt halogens should i put glass under that to wont the heat from the hologens break the glass well i guess they are only 35 whatts but i dunno i may have to run an exspirment
go to walmart and get the 65k daylight bulbs 26watt, 20watt, 13watt, 10watt all will do fine. they are all CF's. I tried the 26watt, 20watt all way too bright so i went with the 13watt.
 

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Well are those the 2 pring halogens also have strip lights in there as well i am using a 5.0 and a 67k coral life but i am worried the halogens might break glass if i drop it in there
 

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I went with higher wattage because my tank is 3 feet tall made more sense to try and get the light to penatrate at least kinda to the bottom
 

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First the disclaimer. I am brand new to PDF's.

That said, I do have experience with halos and t-5's on my reef tank.

A 35 wt halo will not crack the glass. I don't even think it would get hot enough for the glass to burn you. Still, I wouldn't set a light, any light, directly on the glass top. The fixture should be set on the edge of the tank, or, if heavy enough, hung from the ceiling.

Finally, I don't yet have enough experience with daylight bulbs but I am unsure that they have the ability to drive plant growth at 36". I may be dead wrong and a search is probably in order to find someone far more competent than I that has been down this path.

T-5's may be a better option, unless you are unconcerned or plan to choose only those plants with minimal light requirements.
 

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T5's were my favorite on the reef tanks, but IMO overkill. with you having to cover 36inches i would go that route as well.
 

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i've had good luck with all my tanks by using the two piece glass lids. keeps the humidity perfect and keeps the flies in. with the two piece lid i can concentrate on extra spraying when needed for triggering breeding behavior and also keep the tank from drying. i would stay away from any screen top for frogs it will be next to impossible to control humidity levels. some people prefer partial ventilation using computer type mini fans but i never tried to hook up any mini fans to my tanks.to each their own though.
 
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