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I have a chiquita linda and a Neoregelia olens X fireball from NEHERP. Both mounted with wire onto cork about 8" from my T5HO 4 bulb fixture (originally for my aquarium which had great plant growth).
I have removed the three pups from the 'linda' and placed them in three different locations. One location is misted pretty hardily misted for 20 secs. every 1.5 hours. One is lightly misted the same, and the third is in a much dryer yet still humid location.

My questions:
1) Which location do you think broms like best, roots dripping, cup full, or the ability to dry out more.

2) My broms are totally green, olens has a few purple speckles left but not the red I'd love. Should I supplement more light or is it only because I've only had them a month?

3) Will 'linda' make more pups before she dies?

4) Will my olens still flower and pup if it doesn't color up?

5) I have no animals, will my broms prosper from ferts in the cup?
 

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Hi.
Could we please revisit the stabbing to produce pups. my brom has never flowered or pupped. would I do this stabbing thing right in the center of the plant. Thanks
 

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Are basking lights okay for broms? Will they burn plants? I was considering a viv with Williams dwarf geckos but they are sun worshipers as well as humidity lovers. I would love to find a fauna that loves broms and moss but also doesn't eat bugs.
 

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Can the brimiliades out grow the vivarium lets say 18 x 24 tall ? And is the anyway that you can keep it under control? Meaning. Trimming
 

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I poked the center of a few of my bromeliads with a wooden skewer for barbecuing and it worked great to trigger the plant into making pups. Thank you for the write up and the tips.
 

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Can the brimiliades out grow the vivarium lets say 18 x 24 tall ? And is the anyway that you can keep it under control? Meaning. Trimming
Firstly, make sure to choose bromeliad neoregelia cultivars that stay small (between 4 to 6 inches tops). Some great examples are Dartanion, Wild Tiger, Wee Willy, Tiger Cub, etc.

Secondly, you will need to trim pups as they become too large for the enclosure. Best to wait for the pup to be at least 1/3 of the size of the parent plant, and the rosette should already be open.

The best way to avoid congestion issues is to use fewer broms at the start, and allow them to grow in an pup on their own. This leads to very natural looking growth and placement within the vivarium.
 

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I have a chiquita linda and a Neoregelia olens X fireball from NEHERP. Both mounted with wire onto cork about 8" from my T5HO 4 bulb fixture (originally for my aquarium which had great plant growth).
I have removed the three pups from the 'linda' and placed them in three different locations. One location is misted pretty hardily misted for 20 secs. every 1.5 hours. One is lightly misted the same, and the third is in a much dryer yet still humid location.

My questions:

1) Which location do you think broms like best, roots dripping, cup full, or the ability to dry out more.

The placement should allow the brom's base to dry out within a couple hours of watering. If you use sphagnum near the base to promote root growth, it should be slung loosely enough that it never becomes soppy. Filling the rosette with water is always great provided it is flushed out every 4 to 5 days to prevent bacterial buildup that can lead to rot. Sometimes this means going into the enclosure and flushing them by hand with a misting bottle or watering can even if you have an automatic misting system

2) My broms are totally green, olens has a few purple speckles left but not the red I'd love. Should I supplement more light or is it only because I've only had them a month?

You likely need more light. Bromeliads require intense lighting in order to maintain color. In the wild they are often atop trees near the forest canopy and exposed to full sun for many hours during the day. In captivity, providing this level of light takes very high output fixtures. I currently use a Radion XR30w Pro (170 watt variable usage) light fixture to get the most color out of my broms. They usually lose a bit of color when shipped to me, and within 3 weeks the returning color is obvious. In the photo below, I am holding a Wild Tiger that is kept under 4000 Lux of LED lighting next to my Wild Tiger that is in my display viv under a varying Lux between 9000 and 12000. You can very obviously see the difference in color intensity between them. They looked identical a couple of weeks ago.




3) Will 'linda' make more pups before she dies?

Potentially yes.

4) Will my olens still flower and pup if it doesn't color up?

Potentially yes, but at a much slower rate if at all.

5) I have no animals, will my broms prosper from ferts in the cup?

I only ever lightly spray water with diluted ferts around the roots where the loose sphagnum is. Leaving ferts in the cup can lead to rot.
Answered in RED above.
Hope that helps!
 

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Thank you TJ_Burton !

Since I first posted this I have had a lot of luck with my broms.

My 'linda's have now made six pups who are all adults making even more pups.

My 'olens' made two pups whom are doing great. The mother plant quickly died after giving her life to her two clones. As soon as they both reached the same height as her she just withered away the brown mush and both the new olens colored up greatly.
I have since added new lights which made every one of my broms color up. Except I had a terrible experiment. Since both 'olens were orange freckled I decided to buy bromeliad fertilizer. It was supposed to be very weak and and mostly the Potassium (K) with no Urea. I used a sprinkle of granules in distilled water and used a shot glass the gently pour it one the moss of only one olens and not the other. Within the week, the brom turned a vibrant green and lost all it's freckles :( while the unfertilized olens looks so much healthier in comparison. I will never fertilize them again! This same fertilizer did make my goldfish plant bloom though!
 

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I'm having trouble with the pup from my neoregelia guacamole. it started out very nicely striped and healthy. But I cut back some dischidia above it and the latex sap fell on the leaves. It seemed like wherever the sap fell it started drying up and burning. But maybe I'm guessing wrong because around the same time the mist head that targeted this brom broke and this area became the driest. Also it is the closest to my four t5HO bulbs and they are quite hot.
What caused the burning leaves?
I'm hoping it will recover. The base has brown goop and is more wobbly than normal so I really hope I don't have any crownrot, but on the other hand it is shooting out new white roots and two new leaves. Any advice?
 

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I'm having trouble with the pup from my neoregelia guacamole. it started out very nicely striped and healthy. But I cut back some dischidia above it and the latex sap fell on the leaves. It seemed like wherever the sap fell it started drying up and burning. But maybe I'm guessing wrong because around the same time the mist head that targeted this brom broke and this area became the driest. Also it is the closest to my four t5HO bulbs and they are quite hot.
What caused the burning leaves?
I'm hoping it will recover. The base has brown goop and is more wobbly than normal so I really hope I don't have any crownrot, but on the other hand it is shooting out new white roots and two new leaves. Any advice?
Any of my broms that get severe leaf damage like that, I cut the leaves back to just before the burn, or remove them entirely from the rosette. You don't have to, but it keeps them looking nicer.
 

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I saw that you do not have Guacamole in your brom list, TJ. I guess that means I have one you don't have! This was an older picture of the mother guacamole after she bloomed. She only gave me one pup, the one that's burning now and I hope to save.
 

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I saw that you do not have Guacamole in your brom list, TJ. I guess that means I have one you don't have! This was an older picture of the mother guacamole after she bloomed. She only gave me one pup, the one that's burning now and I hope to save.
I do not!

I do have to update the list though, because I have obtained approx 20 new cultivars since I made that blog post :)
 

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I have a neoregalia than just finished blooming and is pupping. But now the closed up flower mass is turning a dark slimy looking green. Should I just let it do its thing or should I remove the spent flower mass? Will it produce seeds at all?
 

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Very well addressed page.. My question is that ventilation is very important.. How much is needed.. I know ideally you want high humidity for the frogs but broms are also important so what's the balance? Is a fan needed? Or just some air flow from the top and front vent on the Exo terra
 

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I recently purchased my first broms for my 36x18x18 exo. I was suprised to see one bloom in only a few short months.

I realize that it will now perish, however it is already growing a decent sized pup to continue on its legacy.

I was however suprised by how long the blooms lasted.....and not in a good way. They only lasted around 3 days. I fear I may have done something wrong, the cup was full when it bloomed, and so I misted fairly heavy to maintain a full cup. I am afraid this may have been the cause of the quick demise.

Can someone confirm or deny this? How long should blooms in broms last? This was a neo. Ritzy Red.

Should I now trim the dead blooms out or leave them? They have molded over and I am afraid they will rot the brom prematurely. There is a healthy spring/iso culture but I seriously doubt they will clean up inside a brom.

Here are some pictures, please advise!






 

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To answer your question.....no. Flowering CAN be induced with the addition of ethylene gas. But remember that all bromeliads are determinate bloomers, and that once the plant flowers, its on a downward spiral. Pupping CAN be induced by heavier fertilization( in the form of osmocote) in the root zone of your broms. HOWEVER, fertilizing broms causes an unpleasant "leggy" look to your broms.
Can using banana as a feeding station release enough ethylene gas to promote flowering?
 
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