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I use an internal fan like the one in this pic. It is a small (40mm I think) computer fan housed in a piece of PVC and mesh and held up with a neodymium magnet. ImageUploadedByTapatalk1369878307.907220.jpg

There are other ways to make internal or external ductwork if you don't like looking at the fan.

With the misting system or hand misting you get air movement and high humidity.
 

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Scale:
Scale is a pest! Hands down the most feared of all the bromeliad pests. There are two basic types dealt with. White scale which is about a 1/16", tends to live on the underside of leaves and deep in the axils.


Could you please tell me what is this white scale concretely? I'm troubled in white scale on my bromes and want to know its common name and scientific name....
 

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Discussion Starter #46

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Can't seem to find this elsewhere, but got a brom with a weird green slime. I soaked brom for 3 hours in filtered, conditioned water, then soaked in 5% bleach for 3 min, and then rinsed multiple times, and soaked for 24 hours in filtered conditioned water, and let dry for about 18 hours. Done this for many broms without a problem, but noticed on this specific one a green slime/gelatin/ooze between some of the leaves toward the axil. I've never seen this before, so curious about what it is? And how to treat it?



 

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Could be thick algae growth. I doubt it would be a problem although someone might prove me otherwise….ya never know;)
 

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Thanks! Any recommendations on how to remove it before I put it in the tank? Physical removal and another bleach bath?
 

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A little of both would be good. Pull out what is visible and reachable then use a mild bleach solution the same way as you would for any new plant.

Sometimes algae is a pain in the neck and an eyesore. Other times it can give that tank the jungle look you need! When its in my broms, its an eyesore and a nuisance.
 

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Thanks! Any recommendations on how to remove it before I put it in the tank? Physical removal and another bleach bath?
Certainly looks like algae to me. If you do not feel any of the plant tissue getting soft or mushy, then it is not a rotting core, and not dangerous to the plant. Truth to tell, I would simply rinse the plant very thoroughly with lukewarm water and use it, depending on the source, of course (a grower? another hobbyist? Home Depot? another tank with amphibians? plucked off a tree?)

1) What is the source?
2) Which variety of bromeliad?

P. S. For me, if the plant came from one of the reputable growers/vendors, then I really believe that all of this triple washing/decontamination/double secret probation stuff is overkill--and potentially stressful to the plants. What, exactly, is everybody so afraid of? A plant pathogen or an animal disease? Of course, all plants should be rinsed and all substrate removed; any plants from retail outlets should be grown out in prop tanks for a while. In my view, I fear pesticide residues way more than pathogens.

Maybe I am relying too much on personal experience, but I have encountered only one problem in 28 years, when I introduced scale. Picking/swabbing did not work, so I had to remove the two affected plants (it did not go near any bromeliads!). That's it.
 

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It's a neo - "Chocolate Bars" - that I got from a grower in FL. It was grown outdoors.

I think I will go ahead and rinse and lightly scrub off the algae. Then I'll go ahead and put it in a grow out tank and wait before I place it in any frog tanks.

Thanks for the help!
 

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It's a neo - "Chocolate Bars" - that I got from a grower in FL. It was grown outdoors.

I think I will go ahead and rinse and lightly scrub off the algae. Then I'll go ahead and put it in a grow out tank and wait before I place it in any frog tanks.

Thanks for the help!
I am curious: What is your primary fear--pathogens or pesticides?
 

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In general pesticides, but when I see something out of the ordinary, pathogens are neck and neck.

Mostly I want to make sure all plants are as clean from contaminants as reasonably achievable.

I am curious: What is your primary fear--pathogens or pesticides?
 

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Question for you all, I got a couple of neo. fireballs. I have had them for 2 months now. They are doing great in growing, but their red coloration has not come back since ive had them. I have 1 T8 6500k 48" flourecent tube, and another 48" flourecent tube with red and blue renditions wich is 6500k as well (got this one from petco its called flora sun)
All the plants are doing good but have not got color back. help?
 

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T8 lighting is notorious for letting broms lose their color, switch up to HOT5, CFL, or LED and watch the color come back

Hey frogparty I had another question.
I stuck 2 brom pups in a nook on my driftwood piece. The driftwood is half in water and the other half is above water, but yet a quarter of the wood that is above the water stays saturated even though its not in the water, and that is where I planted the bromeliad, I do have air flow and the nook is wide enough for air to breeze around the roots (pups are tied down with thread), but do you think that the saturation of the wood is too wet for the brom and may rot it? There is no waterfall anywhere around the driftwood its in a stagnant position.
 

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Question for you all, I got a couple of neo. fireballs. I have had them for 2 months now. They are doing great in growing, but their red coloration has not come back since ive had them. I have 1 T8 6500k 48" flourecent tube, and another 48" flourecent tube with red and blue renditions wich is 6500k as well (got this one from petco its called flora sun)
All the plants are doing good but have not got color back. help?
+1 to what frogparty said. If you're shopping at petco, check out their colormax bulb. I had the same problem, and their LED colormax brought back the reds in my neo as well
 

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Hey frogparty I had another question.
I stuck 2 brom pups in a nook on my driftwood piece. The driftwood is half in water and the other half is above water, but yet a quarter of the wood that is above the water stays saturated even though its not in the water, and that is where I planted the bromeliad, I do have air flow and the nook is wide enough for air to breeze around the roots (pups are tied down with thread), but do you think that the saturation of the wood is too wet for the brom and may rot it? There is no waterfall anywhere around the driftwood its in a stagnant position.
I like to think about plant placement by thinking about what they're designed to do.
Bromeliads we use in vivs are epiphytic, they grow on trees and branches where drainage is excellent. Even if there is rain every day, the roots are never exposed to saturation. The plant will likely tolerate it just fine if the roots have airflow, and likely won't give you any problems. If there's extra moss around its base, I'd remove it and let roots grow exposed to the air. If it looks like the plant is suffering or not rooting well, move it up where the roots can dry
 
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