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iwas wondering how long does it take from a brom to root to the background. i have a fire ball that i put in a few days ago and it seems like the roots are just soaked and brown. i had it in spaghum but i took that off. and the ends are bent down at the tips but it has water the leafs in the middel are tight and dont' seem rotted. do i neeed to tie it on i just have it mounted in the hole i drilled it's pretty tight
 

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I'm having a similar problem. Two of my fireball's leaves are turning brown at the tips and one is starting to curve inward. It's pretty firmly mounted to the corkbark and the leaves are firm and hold water. I have it in a 10 gallon vert. with a shoplight providing light. I would really appreciate some advice from anyone on what's wrong here. Thanks :)
 
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i dunno if it's supposed to be in spaghum moss. that keeps the roots wet.and i hear there supposed to be dry i have it under 2 t8 4 ft bulbs daylight deluxe 6500k from hd it's starting to turn a little red but leaves are still turned down on the ends but there still green not brown so i dunno if its dying or what
 

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I don't have it in sphagnum moss though, which is why I'm so confused.
 

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Here's what it looks like...

Any ideas...anyone?
 

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xxfatalxx said:
iwas wondering how long does it take from a brom to root to the background. i have a fire ball that i put in a few days ago and it seems like the roots are just soaked and brown. i had it in spaghum but i took that off. and the ends are bent down at the tips but it has water the leafs in the middel are tight and dont' seem rotted. do i neeed to tie it on i just have it mounted in the hole i drilled it's pretty tight

Fatal,

Sounds like you are keeping it too moist. You don't have to mount it unless you want it to stay in a particular position. Frogs can easily knock it over (I'm thinking Tincs and larger darts). You should see some root growth within 2 weeks or so. However, it may take a while for it to completely root to the cork (minimum of a month or so).

Lucid,

Sounds like your fireball is getting too much light and is getting scorched. Is the shoplight resting directly on top of the tank?

Justin
 
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ok mine don't look like like the one in the pic. the ends are folded down but not as bad. i dried off the roots took off the spaghum moss and i have it under t8 6500k and 5000k bulbs at 32 watts.i wanna know if the light is strong enough to turn them red. beacause i'm seeing very little color with these bulbs.i do have some red but not much when i used 2 6500k bulbs the plants seemed to respond better with the brighter light
 

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Justin,
the shoplight is about 5-6 inches above the tank. I guess I could take it out and re-root it in a lower position along the cork wall. I thought if I put it relatively high in the cage it would red up, never thought it would get burned. Thanks for the help :D
 

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I used to grow bromeliads commercially by the hundreds of thousands. One thing to remember is that bromeliads are very slow growing. That Neoregelia may well be 18 months old. That said, you will see very little growth in a week or 2 especially in the root system. Everytime you disturb it the plant is set back and needs to recover. Wraping the stolon in a little spagnum and securing it firmly or placing the rootball in a crevice will usually result in rooting within a COUPLE OF MONTHS. You are expecting too much too soon. The brown tips are probably from stress and trimming them off is the only solution that I know of.

Good luck.
Dave
 
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i was told not to wrap the roots in spaghum. because it will rot the roots so i just have mine mounted with nothing. and i noticed my leaves folding in like they don't have any water but they do the roots are always wet to, so i dunno i have them under 6500k t8 and it doesen't seeem to be enough light cause there turning green so i dunno.
 

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I too have recently have had some problems.

I have been told its from too much light and too much heat, but my friend from work (who is the florist manager) could be wrong.

I have two 55 w power compacts. My guzmania has browned leaf tips and the leaves are curling inward. I have another guzmania that looks abit faded and has browned tips.

I have not put a fan yet in the hood, so the heat from the lights makes the glass top hot.

I have a Vrisea too with red flowers. It is on the tank floor planted in a pot of orchid bark, shaded by the big guzmania with curled leaves. Only the flower bract has traces of brown tips, so it could be the heat or light.

The doors of the tank haven't been installed, so could it be humidity?

However, I have a more silvery green, stiffer bromeliad Jason Hupp sent me long ago that has begun to grow after months in a dark, moist tank. No traces of burned leaf tips.

The root ball of all the mounted plants is in shagnum, but it dries out daily. In fact, I'm always misting it with RO water to keep it from drying out too long.

Is it the light and heat? Should I just take them out? Can anybody suggest what bromeliads like high light, but don't grow huge? (My florist manager friend gave me a small pineapple plant too).
 
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well i hope it's not the light cause i just orderd the coralife 130watt pc light strip 2/65watt. so if my lights are to hot now there gonna fry them with the new ones lol. my lights are about 6ins from the tops of my broms just one is folded in all my broms from tropiflora seem to be doing ok for now but just not turning colors but it's just been a week since i got them so i think with the new cf lights hopefully they'll color up. or burn up lol
 

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I do think I'd have better luck with tillandsias in my situation. The tank is humid, but very well ventilated and has a ton of light.
 

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Rain_Frog said:
I have been told its from too much light and too much heat, but my friend from work (who is the florist manager) could be wrong.
I would go so far as to say that it is never too much light. It is too much HEAT from the lights. I don't care how many CF bulbs you pack under the hood, you aren't going to generated enough PAR to photoinhibit most bromeliads. However, the heat from the lights will scorch the leaves. I have yet to see a case where cooling down the temps at the leaf surface did not stop leaf scorching WITHOUT reducing the amount of light. Just remember, more light usually means more heat. Heat dries and scorches the leaves. And there is more than one way to reduce the heat and maintain humidity around the leaves - reducing the amount of light being only one of them.

I'm also a little surprised at how often I hear that broms are slow growers. This might be true for many broms but I've found several of the Neo. and Vriesea sp. commonly grown in vivs to be pretty much weeds and often a little annoying at how fast they pup and need to be trimmed back. I've found if you give them a lot of light, keep them cool (below 90F) and keep them humid, they tend to go nuts.
 
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