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What are the best ways and materials to transition from land into a pond cut out of an egg crate false bottom?
 

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I'd just use a variety of rocks and gravel. Choose inert stone, wash them well with a toothbrush and warm water, and rinse well. also rinse the gravel. I'd use aquarium gravel of a natural color, as it's the cleanest and safest compared to other gravels that you might get elsewhere. NEVER bake rocks in an oven to disinfect them, as they could explode. Use larger rocks to create some structure at the base and in various areas around the bank, then fill in with smaller stones in a slope, and some gravel. You could also use some bogwood or mopani wood. That's how I did my paludarium (although my paludarium does have a partition made of plexiglass, the general concept is the same.)

I'd study photos of a stream, river, or pond to see how rocks naturally settle, so your landscaping looks more natural.

Then soften and naturalize the transition with plants and moss. Java moss works particularly well.

Hope that helps, but I'm sure others with more viv experience can offer some insight and good advice.
 

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This tank has always been my favorite in terms of its water/land transitional style. It is done with clay based aquarium substrate, and carefully selected/placed stones. The only thing Im not a fan of are the white pebbles. If you chose a few large stones as main focal points, then stick with the same type/color for all the other smaller rocks around them. This tank does not actually have false bottoms, but you can easily imagine them in the back corners of the tank.

 

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Grimm...loved the viv/paladarium... can you explain how you accomplished this with a clay substrate, and a water pond area...?? There has to be some sort of partition or something to keep the two elements completely separate or the clay would just remain soggy...would really like some sort of further explanation...really beautiful, as usual...
 

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My name definitely isnt Seah Ming Chuen, so no that palu is not mine. I just like the natural looking slope style that he used.

Aquarium clay based substrates are commonly used in planted aquariums these days. It isnt the typical clay we use in viv substrates above water level, and should not be substituted as a land based substrate.

It does not break down or become soft when submerged. It is fired and almost brittle when squeezed between your fingers. I used a similar look in a column tank I built, but without the stones. Then I used a typical ABG style orchid substrate ontop of the false bottom. If you do use a small particle sized aquarium substrate like this, it is best to cover it using leaves and moss, or to have it fully submerged so that the frogs dont track it around everywhere. This picture shows the slope before leaves and plant were added.

 

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Here's a picture of one I did on the lower left. As you can see I used clay balls and left a depression for aquarium gravel. The water stays very clear and my vari's deposit tads in it. If I don't want to pull them I just feed them out in the pond. I have also constructed a false bottom out of egg crate with an area cut out for the water feature. The water in that viv is tea colored and not nearly as nice to view.

Brian
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Here's a picture of one I did on the lower left. As you can see I used clay balls and left a depression for aquarium gravel. The water stays very clear and my vari's deposit tads in it. If I don't want to pull them I just feed them out in the pond. I have also constructed a false bottom out of egg crate with an area cut out for the water feature. The water in that viv is tea colored and not nearly as nice to view.

Brian
Brian, so what do you think is the difference between using the hydroton and the egg crate false bottom that keeps the water clear?

My Summersi tank has a small pond with egg crate and filled with gravel and it is very dirty. They still like to hop around in it though. The one im currently working on is much larger and Id like to keep it clean(er)
 

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If you are planning on recirculating the water (waterfall, river, etc.) I would recommend against using hydroton. The "refill" time for your pump can be slowed considerably causing surges or air being sucked into the pump.
 

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I've used cork bark for transitions for small ponds before and I think that looks pretty good. It will start to grow moss/algae at the water level and looks more natural. It also holds up pretty good wet as well.
 

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I've used cork bark for transitions for small ponds before and I think that looks pretty good. It will start to grow moss/algae at the water level and looks more natural. It also holds up pretty good wet as well.
I like that idea, do you have a picture of this? My cork rounds are pretty thick and when propped on the ledge of the egg crate, make a pretty harsh cliff. A flatter and thinner piece seems like it may work.

And no i am not recirculating the water, just a sitting water area.
 

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If you are planning on recirculating the water (waterfall, river, etc.) I would recommend against using hydroton. The "refill" time for your pump can be slowed considerably causing surges or air being sucked into the pump.
Can you clarify exactly how that works? Regardless of media, provided there is sufficient water to maintain a constant level to the pump it should not matter as long as the intake is not obstructed.
 

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Can you clarify exactly how that works? Regardless of media, provided there is sufficient water to maintain a constant level to the pump it should not matter as long as the intake is not obstructed.
Im assuming it is in reference to a pretty high flow pump in which the perfusion rate of the water through the hydroton is slower than the intake of the pump. It seems to me though water would perfuse through hydroton almost instantaneously.
 

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Im assuming it is in reference to a pretty high flow pump in which the perfusion rate of the water through the hydroton is slower than the intake of the pump. It seems to me though water would perfuse through hydroton almost instantaneously.
That is what I thought too until I actually tried it. It may be more of the fact that when you have a lot of hydrotron as the false bottom your actual water volume in the false bottom is very small. When the pump starts pumping the water out, it goes dry very quickly. Even when you add more water to make up for the water outside of the false bottom, the margin of error between your pond being overflowing and the pump sucking air is so small that you're constantly adding water to the pond.
This is assuming of course that you just have a small shallow pond and not a full blown paladarium.

Since you are not planning on recirculating your water, it doesn't really matter.
 

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That is what I thought too until I actually tried it. It may be more of the fact that when you have a lot of hydrotron as the false bottom your actual water volume in the false bottom is very small. When the pump starts pumping the water out, it goes dry very quickly. Even when you add more water to make up for the water outside of the false bottom, the margin of error between your pond being overflowing and the pump sucking air is so small that you're constantly adding water to the pond.
This is assuming of course that you just have a small shallow pond and not a full blown paladarium.

Since you are not planning on recirculating your water, it doesn't really matter.
...this tank http://www.dendroboard.com/forum/members-frogs-vivariums/79317-d-auratus-18-cube.html has a hydroton false bottom and a water fall. It works perfect, and as stated above...the water remains clear.

However, I agree that if the water is not being recirculated it doesn't matter.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
No recirculation, just a random tangent of opinion, it all good :) But back on topic, i used pieces of cork round with a GS slope below which will be covered by gravel. Hope this works.. not sure how clean the water will remain however. My fruit flies seem to prefer suicide over being eaten by a frog, this makes for messy H2O.
 

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I just drained the water from my Leuc tank; 30 gallon with a 3/4 to 1 inch deep pond. There is a large piece of wood that acts as the barrier. Anyway, this water hasn't been drained in about a year. The water had only the slightest tint of yellow/brown. Otherwise it looked pretty clear. There is no mechanical pump or filter but I do have a few small plants in the water.
 

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Plants seem to be key... Im going to have to search for some water type plants...
 

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hey Grim vwhere do you buy a product like that. it is exaclty what I need to create a slope from my 15 gallon column tank, I want to make a small pond in the coner but i dont want to put a barrier up, I want it too flow naturally


Aquarium clay based substrates are commonly used in planted aquariums these days. It isnt the typical clay we use in viv substrates above water level, and should not be substituted as a land based substrate.

It does not break down or become soft when submerged. It is fired and almost brittle when squeezed between your fingers. I used a similar look in a column tank I built, but without the stones. Then I used a typical ABG style orchid substrate ontop of the false bottom. If you do use a small particle sized aquarium substrate like this, it is best to cover it using leaves and moss, or to have it fully submerged so that the frogs dont track it around everywhere. This picture shows the slope before leaves and plant were added.

 

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Brian, so what do you think is the difference between using the hydroton and the egg crate false bottom that keeps the water clear?

My Summersi tank has a small pond with egg crate and filled with gravel and it is very dirty. They still like to hop around in it though. The one im currently working on is much larger and Id like to keep it clean(er)
Viv with clearer water does have aquatic plants and Rica moss in it. Viv with egg crate had same plants but they failed to live very long. Also could have something to do with available surface area for aerobic & anaerobic bacteria?

Brian
 
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