Tagging along. I've been wanting to pick up a quality glass cutter as well. 
if he means scoring a line more than once then i can see why my cheap cutter from lowes is crap now. I am used to acrylic and plexiglass so i tried to score it deep, didnt work too well!what exactly do you mean by "overlap"?
is it a kobalt? had some issues with mine, as well. But could have been technique related, since it was my first attempt at cutting (though didn't have issues when the guy was showing how to cut when I bought some glass)if he means scoring a line more than once then i can see why my cheap cutter from lowes is crap now. I am used to acrylic and plexiglass so i tried to score it deep, didnt work too well!
FWIW, I found it easiest to clamp a straight-edge over the glass, making sure I stay on the edge for a straight line....Is there a product the average consumer can purchase thats similar to what the hardware stores use to score glass? Like a draftman's table with a straightedge/cutter affixed? Just line up your intended score line under it, draw the guided cutter across the glass, and presto, a straight cut?
Scott
I do the same thing when I build tank covers for my vivs.FWIW, I found it easiest to clamp a straight-edge over the glass, making sure I stay on the edge for a straight line....
Thanks Judy! I open up my collection for all those who attend the MADS meetings, but certainly is not limited to "members". Maybe we'll organize another meet this spring.off topic...glad to see you are still on the board, your information has helped greatly in the past...still would love to see your frog room.... For Scott...
Scoring a line more than once. One single, smooth line is how it should be done. We all make mistakes and lets say you accidently skip 1/4" at the beginning of a score. If you go back and re-score it, and your cutter so much as barely touches your original score, it could very well ruin your cutting wheel. I keep an old, not so perfect, glass cutter around for just such mistakes. Be aware that while this may fix the problem and give you a smooth cut, it may also be just enough to make the cut go askew at that point.what exactly do you mean by "overlap"?
You don't need to score glass very deep for it too work. A little too much pressure and you'll crack the glass. Even and smooth is always better than deep when working with glass. I guess you already figured that out though!if he means scoring a line more than once then i can see why my cheap cutter from lowes is crap now. I am used to acrylic and plexiglass so i tried to score it deep, didnt work too well!
Kobalt truly makes a bunch of crap. If they would spend half as much effort making a quality tool as they spend on making it pretty and wrapped in blue rubber, they might come up with a decent product. To date, I have returned almost every Kobalt tool I've purchased. At least they will always take it back without a receipt when you explain that you were looking for a tool and if you wanted one of these you could have picked one up from the backyard where your dog deposits his dinner!is it a kobalt? had some issues with mine, as well. But could have been technique related, since it was my first attempt at cutting (though didn't have issues when the guy was showing how to cut when I bought some glass)
I haven't seen their 6 wheeled cutter. Not sure if that gives you 6 times as much chance for success or if it simply makes it smell like you have 6 dogs in the backyard!correct, kobalt six-wheeled cutter. i believe technique was a problem but also its a cheap product, like most of what kobalt makes.
I have never used a Toyo but they are carried by some of the high end glass tool and part suppliers so I would assume they are a quality product.I use Toyo brand
Thanks Scott, for pointing out the importance of that oil dip. With enough experience you can cut dry but it is harder and you will wear you tool out quickly. Don't try it. A quick oil dip is crucial.Somewhat appropriate timing--I just re-cut a glass framework extending the top of an Oceanic Lizard Lounge tank by 6".
I was using very thin glass purchased at Home Depot; initially relied on the old glass cutter in my toolbox.
First cut on the new glass= cracked
Off to HD for a new cutter,oil dip
First cut with the new cutter= perfect
Lessons learned:
A sharp tool cuts best
Staying on a straight line "free hand" is difficult, and trying to set up a straight edge guide is frustrating.
Moving forward:
Is there a product the average consumer can purchase thats similar to what the hardware stores use to score glass? Like a draftman's table with a straightedge/cutter affixed? Just line up your intended score line under it, draw the guided cutter across the glass, and presto, a straight cut?
Scott
Doug,Forget about freehand.
A tool like they use at the hardware store starts at about $1,400 bucks!! How about a T-square with an oil cutter built in? It's called a Speed T-cutter.
It has frustrated me for years that nobody makes a proper, portable, straight edge, glass cutter. I even have the perfect design in my head. It would be simple, effective, cutting perfectly straight lines every time. And it could be produced and sold for probably less than $150.
Any time Scott. Michael is right on target with a small belt sander. Around 80 grit will smooth the edges VERY fast, with only one or two passes. It won't be beautiful though. 150 or 220 will give a smoother edge but will take a few more passes. Regular belts will work but will eat up the sanding belt pretty quickly. There are industrial glass grinding belts available but they are only sold in 10 packs and you have to have a business license. Honestly, I only smooth the edges of vivs I'm building so I just use belts sold over the counter at Lowe's.Doug,
Thanks for the spot-on advice! I'll look into the links you provided, but it sounds like the right cutter, combined with practice, will allow me to make repeated cuts where I want them to go.
Any tips to seam the edges? I use sandpaper.
Scott