Dendroboard banner

Best handheld glass cutter

26786 Views 44 Replies 20 Participants Last post by  Martin Cooper
Looking for recommendations on a quality hand held glass cutter. I'm considering the Gold Tip Designer II Glass Cutter from Fletcher but would like to hear what others use. I have tried the cheap glass cutters you get off the shelf at places like Lowes and have no luck with them. I also considered a wet cut tile saw but seems like the glass would just shatter (especially thin glass) as soon as the blade hit. Thanks, Robb
1 - 20 of 45 Posts
Tagging along. I've been wanting to pick up a quality glass cutter as well. :)
I've been working with glass for half my life. I own a glass repair service in Denver, CO. Fletcher is the best hand held glass cutter you can buy "over the counter". There are better industrial ones...Oil filled, changeable heads, etc. but I don't even bother with those. Get the Fletcher. Any Fletcher. Make sure your protect the head/wheel. A little light oil on the wheel each time you cut extends the useful life. Never "overlap" a score line or you instantly ruin your cutter. Do your cutting on a piece of wood so when you reach the end of the cut and the wheel comes off the glass hard, it hits wood instead of something hard that will ruin the tip.
Doug
Redacted at users request
P.S. Lowe's and Home Depot don't carry them anymore. ACE Hardware's got you covered!
  • Like
Reactions: 5
Rob how is that great big enclosure you built doing?
what exactly do you mean by "overlap"?
if he means scoring a line more than once then i can see why my cheap cutter from lowes is crap now. I am used to acrylic and plexiglass so i tried to score it deep, didnt work too well!
if he means scoring a line more than once then i can see why my cheap cutter from lowes is crap now. I am used to acrylic and plexiglass so i tried to score it deep, didnt work too well!
is it a kobalt? had some issues with mine, as well. But could have been technique related, since it was my first attempt at cutting (though didn't have issues when the guy was showing how to cut when I bought some glass)
correct, kobalt six-wheeled cutter. i believe technique was a problem but also its a cheap product, like most of what kobalt makes.
Somewhat appropriate timing--I just re-cut a glass framework extending the top of an Oceanic Lizard Lounge tank by 6".
I was using very thin glass purchased at Home Depot; initially relied on the old glass cutter in my toolbox.
First cut on the new glass= cracked
Off to HD for a new cutter,oil dip
First cut with the new cutter= perfect

Lessons learned:
A sharp tool cuts best
Staying on a straight line "free hand" is difficult, and trying to set up a straight edge guide is frustrating.

Moving forward:
Is there a product the average consumer can purchase thats similar to what the hardware stores use to score glass? Like a draftman's table with a straightedge/cutter affixed? Just line up your intended score line under it, draw the guided cutter across the glass, and presto, a straight cut?
Scott
See less See more
  • Like
Reactions: 1
Is there a product the average consumer can purchase thats similar to what the hardware stores use to score glass? Like a draftman's table with a straightedge/cutter affixed? Just line up your intended score line under it, draw the guided cutter across the glass, and presto, a straight cut?
Scott
FWIW, I found it easiest to clamp a straight-edge over the glass, making sure I stay on the edge for a straight line....
FWIW, I found it easiest to clamp a straight-edge over the glass, making sure I stay on the edge for a straight line....
I do the same thing when I build tank covers for my vivs.


Toyo pistol grip... The best inexpensive cutter I've used. Went through a bunch of cheap-o versions from lowes/depot etc... The only one that's consistent for me was that pistol grip Toyo. Awesome tool for ~$35

Edit: http://store.allstainedglass.com/pisgripsup.html $30!

Edit again: We use pneumatic tool oil in the gun with great results. Tried the heavier/lighter stuff, but the tool oil makes for easy cleanup and a quick cut.
See less See more
  • Like
Reactions: 1
off topic...glad to see you are still on the board, your information has helped greatly in the past...still would love to see your frog room.... For Scott...
off topic...glad to see you are still on the board, your information has helped greatly in the past...still would love to see your frog room.... For Scott...
Thanks Judy! I open up my collection for all those who attend the MADS meetings, but certainly is not limited to "members". Maybe we'll organize another meet this spring.
I still consider myself a lurker on this board, reading far more things than I respond to.
Scott
what exactly do you mean by "overlap"?
Scoring a line more than once. One single, smooth line is how it should be done. We all make mistakes and lets say you accidently skip 1/4" at the beginning of a score. If you go back and re-score it, and your cutter so much as barely touches your original score, it could very well ruin your cutting wheel. I keep an old, not so perfect, glass cutter around for just such mistakes. Be aware that while this may fix the problem and give you a smooth cut, it may also be just enough to make the cut go askew at that point.

if he means scoring a line more than once then i can see why my cheap cutter from lowes is crap now. I am used to acrylic and plexiglass so i tried to score it deep, didnt work too well!
You don't need to score glass very deep for it too work. A little too much pressure and you'll crack the glass. Even and smooth is always better than deep when working with glass. I guess you already figured that out though!

is it a kobalt? had some issues with mine, as well. But could have been technique related, since it was my first attempt at cutting (though didn't have issues when the guy was showing how to cut when I bought some glass)
Kobalt truly makes a bunch of crap. If they would spend half as much effort making a quality tool as they spend on making it pretty and wrapped in blue rubber, they might come up with a decent product. To date, I have returned almost every Kobalt tool I've purchased. At least they will always take it back without a receipt when you explain that you were looking for a tool and if you wanted one of these you could have picked one up from the backyard where your dog deposits his dinner!
That said, I have purchased cutters that I couldn't get a single good cut from even while brand new. The Kobalt, single wheel cutter will at least be serviceable for a while so there may have been a problem with your technique. Remember that you need to clean your glass along the line to be scored first and also that a bit of oil will make a world of difference in your cut. I have been stuck on a job before without any oil. I pulled the dipstick from my trucks engine and wiped it on my fingers, then applied that to the cutter! It did the trick in a pinch! Any oil should really work fine, even vegetable oil is better than nothing.

correct, kobalt six-wheeled cutter. i believe technique was a problem but also its a cheap product, like most of what kobalt makes.
I haven't seen their 6 wheeled cutter. Not sure if that gives you 6 times as much chance for success or if it simply makes it smell like you have 6 dogs in the backyard!

I use Toyo brand
I have never used a Toyo but they are carried by some of the high end glass tool and part suppliers so I would assume they are a quality product.

Somewhat appropriate timing--I just re-cut a glass framework extending the top of an Oceanic Lizard Lounge tank by 6".
I was using very thin glass purchased at Home Depot; initially relied on the old glass cutter in my toolbox.
First cut on the new glass= cracked
Off to HD for a new cutter,oil dip
First cut with the new cutter= perfect

Lessons learned:
A sharp tool cuts best
Staying on a straight line "free hand" is difficult, and trying to set up a straight edge guide is frustrating.

Moving forward:
Is there a product the average consumer can purchase thats similar to what the hardware stores use to score glass? Like a draftman's table with a straightedge/cutter affixed? Just line up your intended score line under it, draw the guided cutter across the glass, and presto, a straight cut?
Scott
Thanks Scott, for pointing out the importance of that oil dip. With enough experience you can cut dry but it is harder and you will wear you tool out quickly. Don't try it. A quick oil dip is crucial.
Forget about freehand. Leave that for people doing abstract stained glass cuts.
The easiest way to this with tools you probably already have is this. Measure properly and line up your straight edge tool. (your tool can be a metal yardstick or a T-square) Remember that your cutting wheel is about an 1/8" away from the edge of the tool so your straight edge needs to be about an 1/8" away from the line you wish to cut on. No get some wide masking tape or duct tape and tape that sucker down! This makes it so much easier to cut on you will be amazed. Now it takes much less effort to hold it in place with your left hand, while cutting with your right hand. Remember to apply light pressure towards the straight edge, in order to keep your tool up against it so it doesn't wander off to the other side of the cut.

A tool like they use at the hardware store starts at about $1,400 bucks!! How about a T-square with an oil cutter built in? It's called a Speed T-cutter. You lock the cutter in place and then you slide the T-square along the edge of the glass. The T edge is guided by a series of rollers. It allows you to make the same width of cut, over and over again, quickly and easily. I haven't used one myself as I am usually looking to do different widths with each cut and taping a T square down works nicely. Here is a link to the product though.
PTC12 - CRL 12" Production Oil-Feed T-Cutter
PTC24 - CRL 24" Production Oil-Feed T-Cutter
48" (120cm) Speed T-Cutter for Production Glass Cutting | eBay

It has frustrated me for years that nobody makes a proper, portable, straight edge, glass cutter. I even have the perfect design in my head. It would be simple, effective, cutting perfectly straight lines every time. And it could be produced and sold for probably less than $150.
See less See more
  • Like
Reactions: 3
If your building a viv I'd consider a speed cutter, you can get them in 24 and 48'' setups. Others than that I use an oil filled Toro cutter. A verticle straight cut is needed and the speed cutter will take care of that. Id also invest in a small belt sander.

Michael
Forget about freehand.
A tool like they use at the hardware store starts at about $1,400 bucks!! How about a T-square with an oil cutter built in? It's called a Speed T-cutter.
It has frustrated me for years that nobody makes a proper, portable, straight edge, glass cutter. I even have the perfect design in my head. It would be simple, effective, cutting perfectly straight lines every time. And it could be produced and sold for probably less than $150.
Doug,
Thanks for the spot-on advice! I'll look into the links you provided, but it sounds like the right cutter, combined with practice, will allow me to make repeated cuts where I want them to go.
Any tips to seam the edges? I use sandpaper.
Scott
Doug,
Thanks for the spot-on advice! I'll look into the links you provided, but it sounds like the right cutter, combined with practice, will allow me to make repeated cuts where I want them to go.
Any tips to seam the edges? I use sandpaper.
Scott
Any time Scott. Michael is right on target with a small belt sander. Around 80 grit will smooth the edges VERY fast, with only one or two passes. It won't be beautiful though. 150 or 220 will give a smoother edge but will take a few more passes. Regular belts will work but will eat up the sanding belt pretty quickly. There are industrial glass grinding belts available but they are only sold in 10 packs and you have to have a business license. Honestly, I only smooth the edges of vivs I'm building so I just use belts sold over the counter at Lowe's.
A Random Orbital Sander with 220 will give even smoother, better looking results but will take more time and effort.

Hmm, how about taking a T square and applying a rubber coating to the back so that it "sticks" somewhat to the glass? I might have to work on that.
I have a metal ruler that has a very thin piece of cork stuck to the back. I imagine they sell them at drafting supply stores. It works very well for cutting glass.

Edit: Here you go http://www.fairgate.com/Standard-T-Squares-English--Cork-Backed_c_42.html
1 - 20 of 45 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top