what exactly do you mean by "overlap"?
Scoring a line more than once. One single, smooth line is how it should be done. We all make mistakes and lets say you accidently skip 1/4" at the beginning of a score. If you go back and re-score it, and your cutter so much as barely touches your original score, it could very well ruin your cutting wheel. I keep an old, not so perfect, glass cutter around for just such mistakes. Be aware that while this may fix the problem and give you a smooth cut, it may also be just enough to make the cut go askew at that point.
if he means scoring a line more than once then i can see why my cheap cutter from lowes is crap now. I am used to acrylic and plexiglass so i tried to score it deep, didnt work too well!
You don't need to score glass very deep for it too work. A little too much pressure and you'll crack the glass. Even and smooth is always better than deep when working with glass. I guess you already figured that out though!
is it a kobalt? had some issues with mine, as well. But could have been technique related, since it was my first attempt at cutting (though didn't have issues when the guy was showing how to cut when I bought some glass)
Kobalt truly makes a bunch of crap. If they would spend half as much effort making a quality tool as they spend on making it pretty and wrapped in blue rubber, they might come up with a decent product. To date, I have returned almost every Kobalt tool I've purchased. At least they will always take it back without a receipt when you explain that you were looking for a tool and if you wanted one of these you could have picked one up from the backyard where your dog deposits his dinner!
That said, I have purchased cutters that I couldn't get a single good cut from even while brand new. The Kobalt, single wheel cutter will at least be serviceable for a while so there may have been a problem with your technique. Remember that you need to clean your glass along the line to be scored first and also that a bit of oil will make a world of difference in your cut. I have been stuck on a job before without any oil. I pulled the dipstick from my trucks engine and wiped it on my fingers, then applied that to the cutter! It did the trick in a pinch! Any oil should really work fine, even vegetable oil is better than nothing.
correct, kobalt six-wheeled cutter. i believe technique was a problem but also its a cheap product, like most of what kobalt makes.
I haven't seen their 6 wheeled cutter. Not sure if that gives you 6 times as much chance for success or if it simply makes it smell like you have 6 dogs in the backyard!
I have never used a Toyo but they are carried by some of the high end glass tool and part suppliers so I would assume they are a quality product.
Somewhat appropriate timing--I just re-cut a glass framework extending the top of an Oceanic Lizard Lounge tank by 6".
I was using very thin glass purchased at Home Depot; initially relied on the old glass cutter in my toolbox.
First cut on the new glass= cracked
Off to HD for a new cutter,oil dip
First cut with the new cutter= perfect
Lessons learned:
A sharp tool cuts best
Staying on a straight line "free hand" is difficult, and trying to set up a straight edge guide is frustrating.
Moving forward:
Is there a product the average consumer can purchase thats similar to what the hardware stores use to score glass? Like a draftman's table with a straightedge/cutter affixed? Just line up your intended score line under it, draw the guided cutter across the glass, and presto, a straight cut?
Scott
Thanks Scott, for pointing out the importance of that oil dip. With enough experience you can cut dry but it is harder and you will wear you tool out quickly. Don't try it. A quick oil dip is crucial.
Forget about freehand. Leave that for people doing abstract stained glass cuts.
The easiest way to this with tools you probably already have is this. Measure properly and line up your straight edge tool. (your tool can be a metal yardstick or a T-square) Remember that your cutting wheel is about an 1/8" away from the edge of the tool so your straight edge needs to be about an 1/8" away from the line you wish to cut on. No get some wide masking tape or duct tape and tape that sucker down! This makes it so much easier to cut on you will be amazed. Now it takes much less effort to hold it in place with your left hand, while cutting with your right hand. Remember to apply light pressure towards the straight edge, in order to keep your tool up against it so it doesn't wander off to the other side of the cut.
A tool like they use at the hardware store starts at about $1,400 bucks!! How about a T-square with an oil cutter built in? It's called a Speed T-cutter. You lock the cutter in place and then you slide the T-square along the edge of the glass. The T edge is guided by a series of rollers. It allows you to make the same width of cut, over and over again, quickly and easily. I haven't used one myself as I am usually looking to do different widths with each cut and taping a T square down works nicely. Here is a link to the product though.
PTC12 - CRL 12" Production Oil-Feed T-Cutter
PTC24 - CRL 24" Production Oil-Feed T-Cutter
48" (120cm) Speed T-Cutter for Production Glass Cutting | eBay
It has frustrated me for years that nobody makes a proper, portable, straight edge, glass cutter. I even have the perfect design in my head. It would be simple, effective, cutting perfectly straight lines every time. And it could be produced and sold for probably less than $150.
