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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Looking for some suggestions on my 40 gallon breeder verts. I made two of the three i have 'euro' style with vents on the bottom and top. I having a problem with an even temperature in the tanks. And i actually tried different configurations with taping off bottom and/or top vents but that didnt solve my problem.

Given their height, they are about 84 degrees at the top and 72 at the bottom. My patricias were out all the time in their grow out tank which was about 78 degrees. Im thinking the reason they are not out anymore is because of the 72 degree floor temp of the tank. And i wa going to do thumbs at the top, but 84 may be a bit too warm for them...

I have a dual t8 and a dual t5 above the tanks, and all have 40mm cpu fan internal circulation.

Anyone have a suggestions for this?


 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Really? No one has had issues with this??? :(
 

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I have a 40 vert for my blue jeans and the temps you described are about the same in mine, but i run a dual 24" t5 ho. Temps are a little lower right now because of the cooler weather down here, but i still see my pair and froglets out and about, on all levels. I cant speak for tincs but i feel that temp grade should be fine, maybe some tweaking. Give them time to settle? Im sure others will chime in

Vinny
 

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Well I have never dealt with a tank this tall, I have dealt with temperature issues in the past. I'll issue some thoughts.

It seems a tough situation as you want to increase the ground level of the enclosure about 6 degrees, I believe, and the top of the viv is already at 84. Having the top at 90 would be undesirable in my opinion. (Not that the levels will increase linearly by any means, but you get the idea)

Perhaps a small fan or two pulling air out at the bottom or, more feasibly perhaps, pushing air down from the top? This may help slow convection effects and keep the bottom warmer. Not sure you can bump 6 degrees in this manner, but perhaps. If you have vents at the bottom, you might be able to increase bulb wattage and move that heat to the bottom of the tank without heating the top significantly. There could be some issues with this as drawing outside air in my cool the tank in general, but you may be able to find a sweet spot.

You could also look at a "basking bulb" that has a high temp output in a small radius. You may be able to heat a decent area at the ground level without affecting the top too much with one of these, but they throw a lot of heat so be careful. It may/may not get the entire bottom level to 78, but perhaps enough to draw the frogs out to warm up if they so desire.

I'm not familiar with the internal circ fans you mentioned. Are these designed to keep the ballasts cool? Can they be used or shutdown to your advantage?

Hopefully, someone more familiar with stabilizing a taller tank will chime in here, but this is where I would start. When I had a large enclosure that had to keep specific temps in with a good gradient, I just started playing around and checking temps until I hit the temps I wanted. Experiment.. (granted it may not be as easy to play around when your frogs are in there...)

As a final thought, how long have they been in this viv? Maybe they are not fully acclimated yet and the temp is a non issue?
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the replies so far. The internal fans can be seen in the pictures, they are 40mm computer fans to push the hot air down, but the really dont move enough air in my opinion. they are on a fan speed controller as well, but i always have them all the way up. The frogs have been in there about a month, so maybe it hasnt been enough time. I have three 40 gallon breeders on a rack side by side, so im not sure how i would implement basking bulbs into the setup.
 

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A basking light is probably not the best idea anyway. It would appear to be extremely uncommon in this hobby.

Another item that I don't see anyone using would be Flexwatt Heat tape. This would certainly solve your problem as you could adhere it to the bottom OUTSIDE walls of the viv. and set it on a thermostat or rheostat. (an absolute must).

I have never used the product and don't know all of its' ins and outs, but I do believe it would solve your problem. There are probably good reasons why no one uses either of these products with PDF's so ask around, but the tape would be a simple inexpensive way to increase temperature in a specific zone.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
A basking light is probably not the best idea anyway. It would appear to be extremely uncommon in this hobby.

Another item that I don't see anyone using would be Flexwatt Heat tape. This would certainly solve your problem as you could adhere it to the bottom OUTSIDE walls of the viv. and set it on a thermostat or rheostat. (an absolute must).

I have never used the product and don't know all of its' ins and outs, but I do believe it would solve your problem. There are probably good reasons why no one uses either of these products with PDF's so ask around, but the tape would be a simple inexpensive way to increase temperature in a specific zone.
Im looking into it now, thanks for your suggestions.:D
 

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Is it a false bottom? I have considered the idea of tapping into the "thermal mass" of the water in my falsebottoms by increasing the water temperature slightly with a heater or something. The rooms I keep my frogs in are a bit colder and instead of heating up the whole room I am considering just heating the water in the tanks.
 

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Is it a false bottom? I have considered the idea of tapping into the "thermal mass" of the water in my falsebottoms by increasing the water temperature slightly with a heater or something. The rooms I keep my frogs in are a bit colder and instead of heating up the whole room I am considering just heating the water in the tanks.
I had the same idea for my eventual build. I'm curious as to how it would work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Is it a false bottom? I have considered the idea of tapping into the "thermal mass" of the water in my falsebottoms by increasing the water temperature slightly with a heater or something. The rooms I keep my frogs in are a bit colder and instead of heating up the whole room I am considering just heating the water in the tanks.
Wellllll, under one of the tanks I added an 11x17 or so heat mat and added a gallon and a half of water under the false bottom. I introduced the heat pad slowly as to not crack the glass with the cold water in it. This didnt really help. Thinking about trying heat tape on a dimmer on the back of the tanks. IDK.

Also, i just ordered some 60mm fans to replace my 40mm ones, My 40 mm ones move 4cfm. Its weak, the 60s move like 20 cfm. I have them on a fan speed adjuster. Hoping i can move the hot air to the bottom with this. Let ya knowin a week :)
 

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I think this is the best place to start.

Under tank heaters won't do much for you as there should be an air barrier between between the drainage water and your substrate that is going to act like an insulator.

You'll get poor heat exchange and probably heat the water to undesirable temperatures.
 

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Why change it? Temperature gradients are a good thing in vivariums, as long as they are not too extreme. I have tincs that are active when their highs are in the high 60s - if yours are not as active as in the past, I would look at other factors that may be different, such as plants and use of visual barriers. If the frogs have not been in the viv very long, they may just be settling in . . .

Come to think of it, my vivariums with the greatest temperature gradients tend to have the most active inhabitants - the frogs are moving around throughout the day, I'd assume to thermoregulate. I know most of my frogs bask in the mornings after the lights come on, especially during the winter.
 

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It's been noted several times, that if the frogs are new to the enclosure then they are not likely to be out as much. As a second thought, there isn't a lot of cover in the tank in the way of leaf litter (or at least that I saw) and the plants haven't grown in at all so that also can make the frog's shyer.

Ed
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
It's been noted several times, that if the frogs are new to the enclosure then they are not likely to be out as much. As a second thought, there isn't a lot of cover in the tank in the way of leaf litter (or at least that I saw) and the plants haven't grown in at all so that also can make the frog's shyer.

Ed
The bottom of the tank in concern, the one with the rock wall, is pretty dense with plants and litter. Much more dense than the azurues and they are out all the time. The problem with the temp gradient is that its not a horizontal gradient where tincs can move from warmer to cooler, its vertical and the tincs dont go up for warmer air. Could possibly be that they are still new to the tank so hopefully in time they will jump around more.
 

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The problem with the temp gradient is that its not a horizontal gradient where tincs can move from warmer to cooler, its vertical and the tincs dont go up for warmer air..
Where did you get that information?

Ed
 

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All of my tincs climb quite well, and can typically be found higher up in the vivarium during the day, where an ir temp gun will read at least 4-5F higher than at the bottom of the vivarium, if not more.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
All of my tincs climb quite well, and can typically be found higher up in the vivarium during the day, where an ir temp gun will read at least 4-5F higher than at the bottom of the vivarium, if not more.
Huh. Well good to know that they will climb if they need to be warmer... Ive never witnessed by tincs climbing in the 40 gallon breeders. Well in that case im just going to stop messing with it and let it be and see what happens. Thanks Peeps.
 
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