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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Cracked my 75 gallon tank during transportation, so I decided to upgrade to a 100 gallon. Its an older tank, so the glass is thicker, making this tank very heavy. Also it was a salt water tank so it was very dirty and encrusted.



The stand was also in pretty bad shape. Added a plywood floor, a couple of coats of paint, and chrome hinges and handles.





Prepped the tank the same as the 75 gallon: Cleaned with a plastic scrapper and muriatic acid. Drilled holes for plumbing and installed glass divider.



Sucessfully passed the water test.



Then tested pump flow rate versus drain rate. The drain is plenty big enough to keep up with the pump, a Mini-jet 606.

 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
This is probably going to be home for a group of leucs and some cherry red shrimp in the pond section. The 75 gallon was cracked pretty bad. A dolly wheel caught on a door threshold, pulled to the side, causing a bulkhead to cach on a door frame and cracked it all around the hole. I tried to remove the frame so I could replace the glass, but the way the frame overlaped the glass, I couldn't get it of without destroying the frame. The stand rehab was pretty easy. The key is to sand everything and use spray paint for a smooth finish with no brush strokes. Go light with the paint and keep your arm moving to avoid any buildup. Also I used a satin finish, gloss shows too many defects.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I plan on using a backpack air circulation set up like this:

http://www.dendroboard.com/forum/pa...osed-air-circulation-system-you-can-make.html

I am going to be drilling the back of the tank and having the intake and output coming through the background. My question is about placement. I see four possible options: Intake and output both near the top horizontally; both near the bottom horizontally; intake near the top, output near the bottom diagonally; and intake near the bottom, output near the top diagonally. Which if any would be best for internal air circulation and keeping the glass clear of condensation?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Drilled the tank to mount the backpack.

First built a jig to hold the drill bit in place.


Marked the holes and taped the bottom side to prevent chipping.




Built water well out of modeling clay. Used yellow per Pumilo's recommendation.


Have you ever seen more perfect holes?




The glass is 3/8 in. thick so it took a while to get through.


End result
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I work for a restoration company; mold, crime scenes, meth labs, fire. We have some gallon jugs of muratic acid at our shop for cleaning such as acid washing soot off of stone and brick.

The brand is Smart Muriatic acid. The label says 31.45%. They sell it at Home Depot. I just used that and a kitchen scrubbing sponge. Of course, I did it outside with a full face respirator and the appropriate cartridges and lots of rinsing afterwards.

I saw a post on here saying that muriatic acid would work better than vinegar or lemon juice.

If it weren't for all the tools and materials at work, I never would be able to build this tank in my appartment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I am going to need something to cover the view of the false bottom from the pond side. Anyone have any suggestions? I was thinking of attaching some fiberglass screen to the top of the dividing wall and slope it down to the bottom, and back filling it with aquarium soil so plants can grow into it. Or maybe a wedge of ecoweb. Something to allow the frogs to climb out should they need to, or would the slate in the corner be enough for that?

 
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