Otherwise I agree with @Socratic Monologue.
Monitoring moisture requires no instrumentation. Just use what came to you at birth, plus common sense. All fogged up glass, melting plants, and constantly overflowing drains or soggy dirt is way too wet. Wilting plants, crispy dirt and zero drainage is way too dry. Those are the sideboards. Go ahead and zig-zag around some between them; it's better to do that than it is to run perfectly straight down the center. I accomplish this with "moderate" (not quite enough to satisfy all my plants' water needs) daily misting, and several times per month heavy substrate & brom-cup watering (enough to fill up my false bottom and get a little water running out my drains).
Monitoring temperature is best done at a couple times of day (e.g., 8 AM, 3 PM, and 9 PM) once you're planted up and "cycling in", checking spot temps in several locations around the tank. E.g., atop a dry leaf on the litter layer, on a patch of bare moist substrate, on a mid-height branch or perch, at the base of a high-mounted brom, and on the upper leaf of a high-mounted brom. Find the absolute coldest and hottest spots, and also try to determine the temps of the main area actually available for your animals' use. The former will inform you what's basically possible in your room. If you like those more than you like what the main area gives, well, you need to modify something about your tank setup. Never forget, heat kills
, and most things can take - or even prefer - more cool than you think.
An IR temp gun is the only tool
for this temp work. Relying on just a single probe with a constant single reading is, frankly, stupid. When you're starting, go ahead and just write down what the temp gun shows you - use columns for the times of day, rows for the spots, and put the temp values in the cells, or whatever arrangement you like. Half a week of this and you're dialed in for the rest of the season. Repeat this exercise spring, summer, fall, and winter - values will change a lot. The relationship between temps and RH is strong. Dry air changes temp fast, and tends to run cool. Humid air changes temp slower, and tends to run warm, unless you have good ventilation, in which case it can help cool you down.
A tank with good ventilation and some size to it will display a surprising range of values in space and time. That's a good thing. My biggest tanks have spots with lows in the mid 60s and other spots with highs in the upper 80s. (For what I keep, dry-skinned thermo-conformers, these are species-appropriate temps). My coolest DTH spots never exceed about 77F.
I vastly prefer
letting the animals choose the spots that suit their needs, over trying to exactly nail something specific and fussing over how long to keep it there, how fast or slow to ramp up/down, etc. That shit will drive you nuts.
Some people just love their controller gadgets. Not me. I do things like swap the bulb wattage, raise or lower lights, mess with misting times/durations/frequencies, cover or expose more screen area, etc. etc. to tweak heat gain and loss, and evaporation rates. Keep it between the sideboards, let the animals have - and make - some choices, and you'll be fine.
I think this is important enough to repeat - by "let them make choices" I mean, e.g., don't force an animal to stress out by having to choose between a) exposure security and b) preferred temps - offer them warm and cool, dry and humid hides and activity zones. This is another advantage of bigger tanks - more room for options and gradients.