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Old 10-02-2006, 11:40 PM
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Default sliding doors?

I recently built a tank with a sliding glass door on it. The door is two pieces, one overlapping the other and they fit together perfectly. There is one problem though, once the humidity get high and moisture forms on the door it becomes really hard to open. The moisture forms a bond between the two pieces of glass. I have vent holes below the door and above it but it wasn't really helping. I added more holes to the bottom but it really didn't seem to help.

Others who have built tanks with doors like this, what did you do to make the doors slide? I really don't want to add any fans but I am sure there is something else that I can do to help with this problem. Thanks for helping!
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Old 10-03-2006, 02:21 AM
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Hey Nate,
I recently built a 20 gallon Vert. for my Imis with the same problem. I really don't think there is a solution short of changing the door to a single pane on a hinge.
Mine is OK until the misster comes on and then there is moisture that sticks the glass together and you can't slide it.
It was a nice idea but when I get a chance I plan on rebuilding it with a hinge. Which I think in the long run will be better because it will not have the seam down the middle.
Good luck
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Old 10-03-2006, 12:18 PM
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The solution is quite simple, Use plastic E shaped guide rails.

The two glass sheets slide in the rail, which keeps them slightly apart.

Below is a side elavation of the plastic rails, the top rail is deeper than the bottom one. This alows you to be able to remove the glass, by lifting the glass up andout of the bottom rail.

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Old 10-03-2006, 03:05 PM
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can yu buy those at a hardware store?
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Old 10-03-2006, 03:35 PM
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I like that Darryl. Is the gap between the two pieces of glass wide enough for FF escapees?
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Old 10-03-2006, 10:11 PM
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I am not sure what the availability of this product is the States, but I would think that some of the bigger hardware stores or marts should know. It is fairly common over here.

The gap between the two sheet of glass is about 1.2mm, yes FFcan get through the gap. But that is easily fixed by running a small bead of silicon (of about 1mm thick) along the edge of one of the sheets of glass.

Or glue a small clear rubber gaskit as shown below, this will stop the FF escaping but still alow the doors to slid easily.

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Old 10-03-2006, 11:56 PM
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Hummm, interesting idea Darryl. I used plastic track from tapplastics.com

http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=246&

take a look at item "E". It is a single track for top and bottom but I guess you could glue two together and get the right shape. I have not been able to find anything else on the net.
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Old 10-03-2006, 11:59 PM
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You might get more results if you search for combinations of "channel" and double/dual/two/etc.



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Old 10-04-2006, 12:31 AM
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Interesting because I'am having a hard time finding it too. Any small gap would be easy to fill and would also solve the problem I am having.
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Old 10-07-2006, 12:15 PM
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It took me a while to find plastic sliding tracks for 1/8" glass. I ordered a bunch so that I would have them. They work perfect and are easy to cut. You have to order like 10 to a kit, so split them with someone:

http://www.knapeandvogt.com/Plastic_Tra ... etails.437

Hope this helps,

Mike
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Old 10-08-2006, 01:52 AM
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Finally found a better one..

Sliding Track

scroll down to "Guide Sets"
They are a lot cheaper than the above post. You don't have to buy 10.
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Old 10-08-2006, 01:59 AM
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Not a lot cheaper but not having to buy 10 works :wink:
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Old 10-08-2006, 02:45 AM
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Sorry, that is what I meant.
I ordered one so I will let you know what it looks like when I get it and whether it will work or not.
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Old 10-08-2006, 02:53 AM
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Thanks so much for finding those. Let me know what you think of it when you get it.
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Old 10-08-2006, 04:08 AM
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Darryl,
Any Idea where we would get something like this....

Quote:
Or glue a small clear rubber gaskit as shown below, this will stop the FF escaping but still alow the doors to slid easily.
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Old 10-08-2006, 04:10 AM
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I was thinking of using a bead of silicone. Hot glue would be nice, but it never holds up to the moisture.
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Old 10-13-2006, 02:24 AM
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Just thought I would let you guys know that I got the tracks today in the mail. They are perfect. It looks to me as though you could use either 1/8" or 3/16" glass, though I think the 3/16 might be too tight and cause drag. The link to the website is in my earlier post on page one.
They look exactly like the diagram Daryll drew on the first page. My only complaint is that they are tan instead of clear or white. Buy them guys, I don't think you will be disappointed.
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Old 10-13-2006, 03:23 AM
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Thanks for giving us an update. I am glad that you liked the tracking.
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Old 10-14-2006, 03:54 PM
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I will be building a 10 gal vert. this weekend with the slides so I will let you know how they worked.
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Old 10-16-2006, 12:38 PM
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Creating the thin silicon gasket:

1.Place the two opposing glass doors into the tracks.
2.Mark the overlap between the two panes of glass
3.Use surgical spirits to degrease and clean the two edges that overlap
4.Place a wide length of masking tape on the front face of the back sheet
of glass.
5.Use a straight edge and a sharp scalpel bale, cut an approximate 5-8mm gap in the masking tape, 5mm from the edge.
6.Use a small amount of Surgical spirits to clean this small exposed strip of glass.
7.Place several wide length of masking tape on the back side of the front sheet of glass.
8.Lightly coat the masking tape on the front glass with a thin layer of petroleum jelly.




9.Place the back sheet of glass back into the track.
10.Use a pencil and mark the masking tape just above the bottom track.
11.Push the glass as high as is needed to be able to lift it out of the bottom track.
12.Use a pencil and mark the masking tape just below the top track.
13.These marks will indicate the end points of the gasket.
14.Run a small bead of clear silicon sealer over the 5-8mm gap in the masking tape, between these two marks.
15.Carefully place the front sheet of glass back in the track.
16.You should now have the wet (uncured) silicon sandwiched between the two sheets of glass.




17.Leave to cure for at least 24 hours.
18.Carefully remove the font sheet of glass from the track.
19.The layer of petroleum jelly should prevent the silicon from sticking to the masking tape.
20.Remove the back sheet of glass and lay it on a flat surface.

21.Use a new, sharp scalpel blade and a straight edge, cut through the cured silicon to the line of the masking tape.




22.Make the above cuts at a slight angle.




23.Remove all masking tape with excess silicon and degrease the sheet of glass and the new silicon gasket.
24.Place both sheets of glass back into the tracks.

The multiple layers of masking tape should have allowed a small gap between the gasket and the front sheet of glass.




This allows the two sheets of glass to be able to slide past each other with out binding up.


I hope the above explanation helps, if there are any question, feel free to ask.
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Old 10-17-2006, 01:38 AM
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Quote:
I will be building a 10 gal vert. this weekend with the slides so I will let you know how they worked.
I actually ended up building a horizontal for Vittatus so I won't be able to try the slides this time. Sorry guys.
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Old 11-06-2006, 04:02 AM
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there is another place to order this track from http://doitbest.com/DoItBest/Main.aspx? ... SKU=228658 and there is also another way to not let the FF escape there is another plastic trim peice that is used for shower enclosures that fits directly on 1/8" glass it looks like this l_l_ (called an F profile) it might need to be trimmed a little but should work for your application hope this helps
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Old 11-09-2006, 12:14 AM
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Quote:
and there is also another way to not let the FF escape there is another plastic trim peice that is used for shower enclosures that fits directly on 1/8" glass it looks like this l_l_ (called an F profile) it might need to be trimmed a little but should work for your application hope this helps
Can you find us a sample of this "F" profile?
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