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custom glass ikea bookshelf vivarium build

28K views 51 replies 24 participants last post by  konton 
#1 · (Edited)
Since the local glass store was giving away 20"x20"x1/8" glass panes, I thought I might as well use them for something.

Unfortunately I don't have much space left in the house and I didn't want another ugly wire rack. But I was giving some books to charity this weekend and decided I might as well keep the ikea bookselves and use them for something. So as of today I'm building 14.25"x10.25"x20.25" vivariums. That makes a nice 10 gallon for my thumbnails. I'm going to build one first, and then two more if it works out. Or maybe six total.

I admit I'm bad with glass, but I figured the space on the shelf isn't that big and I can use it as a template, so there isn't that many ways to mess up. I got an L, glass cutter, and a glass seamer, and got to work.

I made two 10x20 for the sides, two 10.125x14.25 for the top and bottom, and a 20x14.25 for the back. I put blue painters tape around the corners of the shelving space, then dropped the bottom glass in. I used clear GE silicone II on the edges, then put the back in. Added more silicone, then put the sides in. Repeated again, then dropped on the top. I finished off with a nice layer inside the tank. I used some shelves to put pressure on the top and one inside the tank to keep the sides from falling inward.

After a couple hours of hardening, I pulled out the tank from the shelf to make sure it could be pulled in and out, then removed the painters tape and placed the shelves properly on their pegs. Now I wanted to test out some lighting. I used three 110mm angel eye LED lights to stick between the tank and the next shelf. I also added a 9.5" waterproof blue LED strip for night lighting. So far they looked good, but I still need to drill holes in the shelving for hidden cables.

I wanted to give the tank a lip for glass on glass, so I added a 2"x14" on the top and 2"x13" on the sides. These were really hard to keep flat while the silicone dried.

After staring at the tank for a while I decided I wanted hidden vents at the top, and a euro style vent at the front. Since I'm bad with glass and cutting a shape is impossible for me, I'm opting for holes. I also plan for a hinged front. At the moment I just placed a recessed piece of glass at the bottom.

Work on progress. I managed to get a diamond drill bit. But I still need a new drill!

Justin
 
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#31 · (Edited)
I did end up adding just a little bit of drift wood and cork bark. I also added more form so I could cut out ledges and areas to plant. Something new for me. I've noticed recently some of my imitators do use the ledges once they are planted in so the can hide.



I actually like the rock look of the touch 'n form landscape. I'm considering keeping the rocky background and adding a little bit of clay and moss at places to keep humidity in. Usually I'd glue coco fiber to everything. But that look has been done to death.

To test out placement with my broms, I added the substrate and placed the broms how I would imagine them.



I like how the 10 inch depth just leaves enough room for the plants, but the 14 inch width really gives me space to work with broms. The more width the better! Allows a little more light for the plants at the bottom.



The night lighting is looking pretty good too. Later this week I'll add a little bit of coco fiber, mud and moss for ledges and around the roots, and then plant the figs and other things that will climb and cover the back wall.



Justin
 
#33 · (Edited)
Thanks Fitzy, Since I'm working with imitators who won't get stuck and can easily climb out, I have no plans to mesh it in. Since there are three holes in the front with mesh already, there is no need. Fruit flies can't get out. I tested that already.

I'm actually thinking of adding Feng Shui Black Pebbles into the space to hide the hydroton and substrate. These will also help accent the rock wall look.

Justin
 
#34 ·
I'm going to let these sit for a while and fill in. But I'm not all that happy.

I started out removing the plants and adding the glue to place the coco fiber. But I have to say, it's a pain. So I just took some clay I had from prior builds and tossed it on the back instead. Clay is nice since it sticks into all the cracks of the foam and keeps the vivarium humid. It's also a great way to attach things to the foam and nice to place around roots for growth.



The clay looks nice, like earth on top of rock. And after adding the plants I know the tank will fill in well. But I was really enjoying the black rock background over the earth tones.

I decided against leaving it black because I cut ledges out of the foam, and they needed to be covered with something. Plus touch 'n foam really shrinks after a day or two and clay is an easy way to fill in the gaps. I don't know if this is the best move, but hopefully the imitators will approve.



Since the front well with the air vents was getting so well lit, and also starting to collect substrate, I thought it best to toss in the rocks. Since the background was not black anymore, I kept the rocks to earth tones as well.



Stick a fork in me. I'm done for now.

Justin
 
#35 · (Edited)
Nice job! I know how you fell though, I have taken the time to make some great build and then once you get to the final product you are not at all satisfied. I hope you end you liking it in the long run though.
 
#42 ·
The broms really make it hard for light to reach even the level of broms below. So the light could be better. But it's hard to fit light fixtures under a shelf. I've recently tested some 5050 SMD's and they make a big difference. I was going to try out some CREE lights, but the about of heat generated makes me want to stick to 5050 SMD's.
 
#44 ·
Yeah, it's a pain to add. But I'm realizing the upside is the coco fiber retains moisture and in the long run it does help the plant roots out. However it don't need to cover the entire backwall. Plus rocks look pretty sweet. So I'm going to try to make coco fiber areas.

I currently working on the lower shelf now with modifications to the vents and a thinner door. I was going to GS the whole back. But Both Great Stuff and Touch 'n Foam will shrink after 10 days. Best to use Total Pond Waterfall Foam Sealant.
 
#46 ·
Well Home Depot is out of the foam waterfall sealant. So I had to go with GS. I may try to cover it with black touch 'n foam if I swing by the hardware store and they have it. At least as a cover, shrinking won't be a big deal.



The big difference with the tanks is they now all have a 1/2" of metal mesh that goes the whole 14" across the top of the tank. Way more ventilation than before. Because of that I removed the 3 3/4" hole vents from the front of the tank and lowered the bottom from 6" to 4". So now there's more viewing room and no need for a space at the front of the tank which you see I filled with rocks.

Making the mesh vents are a pain, since you need to tape first around the area, then over one side, glue, rip it off the tape, let it dry, and repeat for the other side. I like the ease of drilling glass and using snap grommets.



I'm trying out some new lighting system ideas so I'll be able to fit misters and the lights above the tank. I'm using G4 lights with 15 SMD5050 which give out 3x as much light per LED than the ones I was using before. They are also hotter, so using egg crate I constructed a frame for the light. The light pops right into a 4 square area. 3 total per tank works fine, but 4 would be a little better. 3 however is still brighter than my old lighting system so I know it will be fine for plants. Plus these lights are more 5000k rather than 6500k.



I'm slow to build these days just because I don't wanna buy new magnets and other little odds and ends. I keep thinking I should have made these 17" tall, not 20." That would make them 10-gallon, not 12.5-gallon tanks, and I would have been able to fit a total of 12 tanks on one ikea rack. Oh well. Who wants to sit on the floor and stare at frogs? Okay, maybe I do. :)
 
#47 ·
Looks fantastic, man.

Are you at all worried about moisture building up under the shelves that are over the vertically-vented tanks?

I am looking to make the switch the LEDs also; the prices of the small outlets like these are far more appealing than what I have seen from the more common sources.
 
#48 ·
Interesting point. I didn't have a problem with the other tanks, but they also have vents on the front. I guess I'll just have to see if having a top vent causes any moisture build up. There is 1.5" of space above that tank which allows room for airflow. Plus I have some fans I might add which would help with venting.
 
#49 ·
Letting this sit for a week while I'm out of town. Plus I'm out of hydroton. Anyway, finished the backgrounds with silicone and cocofiber. Started one tank by first making a front divider out of egg crate to place been rocks and hydroton. Placed an inch width of pebbles in the front and hydroton in the back. Covered that with clay, then moss, then cocofiber, then oak leaves.



More fun on this next week once I'm back.

 
#50 ·
The ikea bookshelf build is now more or less complete.



All six tanks are now using the same type of 45 5050LED lighting. I've also attached my misting system to both levels.



The new lower tanks now have a 12x15 front using 1/16" glass. Went into the 1/8" hinge fine. I have three magnets keeping the front in place. The strongest is under the glass handle.

After the lower three tanks has settled I'll be moving some juvies into those tanks. Right now they are all in the large vertical 60 gallon. I have a few other tanks up in running trying other methods of building to the right, but they are mainly for juvies and growing more plants.

If you want to check out my frog room, this is what it starting to look like:

 
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