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Old 01-16-2020, 03:08 AM
macg macg is offline
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Default Re: 55Gal Sliding Door Conversion

Thanks!

The sliding door wasn't too bad. The most difficult part is estimating the measurements on the glass to be cut for the doors.

The track can be a little tough to find. I used: https://www.outwater.com/products/180-bk/

For the doors, I used 1/8" glass cut to my designated dimensions by a local glass shop (they do custom commercial and home glass). I'll describe the measurement difficulties further down.

When looking at the front of the tank that has the doors, note the glass that runs along the bottom (for my tank, it was about 7" tall, 48" long). It's essentially a retaining wall that holds the substrate layers in the tank.

With some tank designs, 2 pieces of glass are placed in that retaining wall position, with a third piece of glass running over top of them. This acts as the shelf for the lower track, which bears the weight of the glass doors. If this is unclear, I can find a picture for you.

In my case, I have only used a single piece of glass, 1/4" thick (I would not use smaller). I have found that the bottom track, when centered on this retaining wall, will support the weight of the glass doors without issue. I use a generous amount of silicone directly under the track and along the 90 degree angles it makes with the glass (as if my intent was to seal it like the vertices of a tank).

The sides of the doors are simply more track aligned to the bottom track and adhered to the glass (some strategy as the bottom track). I hold it in place with my special clothes pins while drying.

The top track is aligned to the side tracks and adhered to the glass (same strategy as the bottom track). I hold it in place with my special clothes pins while drying.

The tricky part about sizing the glass for the doors is measuring the total width/height of the opening and then with regards to the height:

- SUBTRACTING the total height of the bottom track (plus silicone, which takes up a mm or so without fail)
- SUBTRACTING the thickness of the plastic (not the whole track height, but the actual plastic) of the top track
- SUBTRACTING an extra mm or 2 to ensure you can get the track into position.

All this may be fairly obscure in writing, so let me know if any or all of it is too vague. I can take some pictures and make a drawing or 2. I draw all this out anyway for my builds.
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