
09-03-2010, 05:03 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: San Antoino, Texas United States
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Re: Fiberglass & Resin backgrounds?
I have extensive experience working with polyester (aka "fiberglass") resins for this application.
I see what you are talking about and yes it will work if applied properly. You don't even really need to use the glass matting. You would just coat the foam with the resin.
HOWEVER:
What you are talking about using is polyester resin. It is inexpensive, toxic, flammable, and the catalyst is methyl-ethyl-ketone (VERY VERY toxic). I have set fire to my grass by making too large of a batch (1/2 gallon) in my garage at 95 degrees F. Honestly, don't use it. Its not worth it. If you use too much catalyst it cures too fast, can catch fire and/or has extra methyl-ethyl-ketone that can leach out. If you use too little or its not warm enough it will never cure and ruin your design.
You MUST wear full protection. Goggles, full air mask rated for solvents, labcoat/disposable clothes, and have water available for immediate flushing of the skin.
Even when applied properly in the correct ratios it will still outgass like hell for at least a week. Even in the South Texas summer heat it will takes a week to fully outgass.
Styrene foams (like styrofoam or extruded polystyrene/blue down insulation foam) will be eaten away like Alien acid when polyester resins are applied to them. So if you must use great-stuff ONLY.
I use to use this material by brushing it over urethane foam and dusting on my material/dirt. Then adding another layer of polyester resin, followed by another layer of material. This trapped a layer of dirt/peat/whatever in between the polyester and made it erosion proof. Another method I used, once, was to mix in the dirt after the resin has been mixed with the catalyst, and then pasted it on. But it got so hot so quick that it just about burned me through the gloves.
Dude, it CAN be done, but polyester resin is best left for people who make boats.
NOW instead of using polyester resin (aka Fiberglass resin at homedepot/lowes) use a true epoxy. The kind I use and will be selling soon is from a company out of Corpus Christi called Dewey Supply. You have to Google them and call them up as they don't have a website. Ask for Epobond brand. And its not cheap. But its a much easier 1:1 ratio, it won't catch fire, its nowhere close to as toxic, smells MUCH less, and works better. It also works with caustic materials.
Something you can do is add DRY grout mix after you have mixed together the two epoxy parts. This will allow you to make a soupy/paste-like material that looks like rock but has the properties and hardness of epoxy. This won't work with polyester resin as it can not handle the caustic materials in the grout mix.
Your project sounds like it will be a great one, but you will likely either outright fail or have a much much harder time if you go cheep and use the polyester resin. Epoxy is THE only way to go in this hobby unless you really really know what your doing.
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