Constructing a Euopean type Vivarium Step by Step

[S2H5287]

This is an awesome DIY, but does anyone have any idea how much it would cost to make one of these?

[m4dc4t]

Originally Posted by S2H5287

This is an awesome DIY, but does anyone have any idea how much it would cost to make one of these?

In Dallas, TX I was quoted a high of 230, but I know I a place I could get it for about 180! Uhhh, that is for the glass that is! 1/4".

[Invert]

Great looking instructions! What program did you use for these models?

[Darryl]

I do not know what the cost of the glass is in the States, but here in the UK, I can build a 18" x 18" x 18", for about £70.00 ($140.00)

I used Google Sketchup, to do the drawings, It is a easy piece of software to get to grips with, for designing.

[S2H5287]

Cool, thanks for the replies on the cost question.

[Darryl]

After many requests, I have decided to produce the PDF document of the construction up to this point.
All the other additions will be in the form of an supplimental PDF Document.

If you ask really nicely I may consider emailing a copy...


Darryl

[boastud]

awsome, love it

[lessthantito]

great thread perfect for the DIY'ers that love the euro style tanks

[Darryl]

Optional False Base Instructions

This is assembly instructions for a sloping false base, in a European style vivarium.

There are two versions of the back of the vivarium when installing a false base: Standard solid back or arched cut-out back.



The standard solid back will create a dead space under the false bottom, whereas by using a back with a arched cut-out, you can access the space under the false base. Having access to this area allows you to make use of the space, i.e. installing a heat mat and cleaning.

Construction of the vivarium will follow steps 1-5 of the standard construction procedure, to this point.




5.1. FRONT FALSE BASE STRUT
This is a low front strut or lip which will support the lower front edge of the false bottom.
• This strut should be approximately half the height of the inner retaining wall, but not lower than any bulk head siphon level.
• The strut should be placed approximately 50mm (2”) back from the inner retaining wall.
• Apply a thin but sufficient bead of silicon along the bottom and left hand edges of the strut.



• Carefully align the strut to be parallel with the back of the vivarium.
• Press the piece with a light, but firm pressure to bed it into the silicon.
• Use the Right-angle or Square to check that the strut is at right angles to the base.




5.2. BACK FALSE BASE STRUT
This is a higher strut or lip which is located on the back of the viv to support the back edge of the false bottom. If you are not using a back with an arched cut-out, then the strut can be reach down onto the base.
• The top edge of this strut should be approximately 35 - 50mm (1½ - 2”) higher than the top edge of the front strut.
• If you are using a back with a cut-out, the strut should be wide enough to run from the top of the cut-out to the required height.
• Prepare two or three polystyrene blocks that fit snugly between the base and the top edge of the back cut-out.
• Apply a several thin but sufficient beads of silicon along the back the strut.



• Carefully align the top of the strut to be parallel with the base of the vivarium.
• Press the piece with a light, but firm pressure to bed it into the silicon.




5.3. Allow the silicone to cure for 4 hours.


5.4. FALSE BASE
• Measure the distance from front top edge of the front strut to the top back edge of the back strut.
• This measurement will give you your length of the false base.



• Apply a thin but sufficient bead of silicon along the top edges of both the front and back struts.



• Apply a thin but sufficient bead of silicon along the left hand edge of the false base.



• Align the front and back edges of the false base to the top of the relevant struts.
• Press the piece with a light, but firm pressure to bed it into the silicon.
• Ensure that the base is also bedded along the left hand side.




5.5. SIDE (Right-Hand)
• Apply a thin but sufficient bead of silicon along the side edges of the Door Strut and the retaining lip pieces.
• Apply a thin but sufficient bead of silicon along the side edges of the false base front and back struts and the side edges of the false base.



• Apply a thin but sufficient bead of silicon along the bottom and back inside edges of the side piece.



• Carefully align the side piece to the outside side edges of the base and back.
• Press the side piece with a light, but firm pressure to bed it into the silicon.
• Fold the x2 pieces of tape upwards and stick them to the side; this will assist in keeping everything in the correct place.
• Use x2 pieces of tape and stick them across the back and side joint, this will assist in keeping everything in the correct place and in the upright position.




5.6. With most of the pieces in place and the vivarium constructed, run an adequate solid line of silicone into the joint areas on the inside, then run your finger over the silicone from one end to the other of each seam, preferably in one continuous motion, to smooth the silicone down and force it into the joint areas.

Tip: Dip your finger into a little water and dishwashing soap, before smoothing down the joints. (10 drops of soap in a glass of water)




5.7. From this point the assembly procedures are the same as for a standard assembly.

[JPccusa]

Hey Darryl,
I really like your design and detailed explanation.
I have a question regarding the vent position. Why is the top vent positioned towards the back of the tank? Wouldn't be better to have it towards the front so a laminar flow of air would keep the front glass condensation-free? What is your (and other members as well) opinion/experience?

Thanks,

JP