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06-30-2007, 01:45 AM
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Bowfront Lid
Im looking to make a lid for my bowfront with screen in the front. I know the window screen edging can be bent, Im just not sure of exactly how to do this. Has anybody done it before, and if so could you explain how you did it?
Thanks
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06-30-2007, 02:15 AM
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I would just install 2 small fans on the back end of the standard marineland lid(in the plastic strip). Or you can drill the front curved piece with diamond holesaw and put fans in front in the front. I checked with marinelane, as I was gonna do it this way, but I just ended up putting the fans in back and the glass is clear and the humidity is fine.
You just have to have a timer for your fan or manually turn them off every night.
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06-30-2007, 02:27 AM
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a rubber mallet, quick clamps and a piece of wood cut to the shape you want it bent to should do the trick. clamp one end to the wood and slowly hammer your way to the other end clamping as you go along.
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06-30-2007, 02:30 AM
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It can be bent, but it's not a straightforward process without the right tool. I'll do my best to explain how it works without a pic.
Basically the way this is done in industry is there is a machine with three wheels arranged in a triangle. Two wheels are fixed and one is movable. By controlling the distance between the two fixed wheels and the movable wheel, you can control the radius of the bend.
There is another way to do this, but it's going to take alot of trial and error. You need to make a curved template that has a slightly tighter radius than what you need. Then you fix one end of your aluminum piece to the template and bend the rest of the piece around your template. It should take a cast (permanent bend) that's larger than your template. How much larger is the trick. So you check your piece, cut a little on your template and try it again. You keep doing this until you get the curve you want.
And one last way that might work, I've not tried this or seen anyone do this so it's one of those "in theory it should work" kind of things. Cut a template that is exactly the radius you need. Bend your piece around it like above but this time, as you're bending it, take a torch and heat the area that's touching your template. For the torch, you might be able to do this with just a MAPP setup like used for plumbing, I can't get any good info on how hot it gets. The aluminum will need to be heated up to about 800F, this will cause the aluminum to anneal and take on the shape you have it bent around. Now, how will you tell you've hit 800F? Without something like a temp stick, you won't. You might be able to feel the metal "give', but then again, maybe not. This also may not work with certain aluminum alloys, so it's trial and error.
I hope this at least gives you some ideas. Best of luck and post back what you end up doing.
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06-30-2007, 02:42 AM
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HA! Hahahaha! I win this round. not quite as informative as your response but I'm glad we agree that the buck method should work. Heat should speed the process but I dont think it'll be necessary if you work slowly. The heat generated by bending the alum should be enough to allow it to deform rather than crack.
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06-30-2007, 02:50 AM
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You do win, and your method is easier. We'll see about next time punk :P
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"This hobby is about 10% what you know, and 90% experimentation." - Lon Heim (DartMan)
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06-30-2007, 07:02 AM
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I wonder if a person had the right router, and the skill to go use it, if they could make the piece out of something different.
Myself, I would take a glass lid, cut it so that all that is left is the curved part, and then just make a rectangular screen section behind that.
I would think that would be close enough to the front to get the job done.
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06-30-2007, 06:21 PM
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I was considering making it out of wood. I've got plenty of woodworking tools . I would make a square frame for the back and put a dato in it and fit it with glass. The front would have a straight back and the curved front. with a thin dato cut on the bottom and screened in. Ill keep everyone updated on what i end up doing.
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06-30-2007, 06:50 PM
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If you've got wood working tools, I'd go that route. Cover the thing in epoxy and you'll be set.
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-Mike
"This hobby is about 10% what you know, and 90% experimentation." - Lon Heim (DartMan)
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06-30-2007, 10:41 PM
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Why do I need to cover it in epoxy? I was just planning on sealing it with clear coat. My other idea was to make the frame of the lid out of thick acrylic. I know sheets of acrylic will bow over time but the thick stuff should be okay. The back would just be a sheet of glass, and then the acrylic frame with screen in the front, and I would silicone some acrylic hinges on. I need to go to the plastics company and look through their scrap bin to see if using acrylic would be cost effective.
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