Mites in my cultures

sports_doc · #1 (**permalink**) 06-23-2005, 01:23 PM

What is the best way to ride a fly culture of mites?
I am using miticide paper now under the culture but doesn't seem to stop the problem 100%. Seems once they get in, slowly the fly's become less productive and the culture finally fails, prematurely.
Ideas?

Thanks
Shawn

froglet · #2 (**permalink**) 06-23-2005, 01:25 PM

having the same problem myself a few times i just find it easier to dispose of all the flies and just start new ones. Not too hard at all, just 3 or 4 new cultures divided into alot of cups will do.

JoshKaptur · #3 (**permalink**) 06-23-2005, 02:04 PM

I did this once successfully by dusting the flies heavily, and then letting them crawl out of the cup (tilted horizontally) as opposed to dumping them out. I repeated 2 or 3 times with fresh dust. I was told the dust would knock the mites off, and that the flies would crawl out much faster than the mites (head for the light).

Not very scientific, but my mite infested culture produced clean cultures that have been going for dozens of generations since.

Josh

sports_doc · #4 (**permalink**) 06-23-2005, 03:09 PM

I assume the mites are BAD, yes?

I generally haven't tried using the infested culture to make new. I have 6-8 going at any one time so I start over from them.

Do different media make a difference?

What about additives? and mitacides?

ChrisMc · #5 (**permalink**) 06-23-2005, 04:03 PM

I had a mite problem early in the year. I tossed all my hydei but kept my melanogaster to see if I could rid them of mites. I placed all new cultures on mite paper from carolina bio. and I used tedion soaked construction paper. After several generations they disapeared. I was able to clean my melanogaster but I think you need to treat for mites inside the culture and out. I need to find some wood to knock on!

I think only stinky old cultures really attract mites so I discard them quickly. Any culture over 30-35 days is tossed.

Scott · #6 (**permalink**) 06-23-2005, 04:38 PM

I keep my older cultures away from my newer, developing cultures.

That way I can feed "to the last fly" and still not worry about mites in my new(er) cultures.

Hopefully.

s

sports_doc · #7 (**permalink**) 06-23-2005, 04:41 PM

Is it my imagination or do infected culture seem to peeter out quicker??

Does that Carolina anti-mite paper really work? I have seen other types available.

Shawn

ChrisMc · #8 (**permalink**) 06-23-2005, 06:28 PM

I noticed that I had mites several months before I started to treat. It wasnt until my production dropped drastically to about 25% of what I used to. At that point the cultures that could feed all my hungry mouths could no longer. It just got worse the longer I let it go.

The mite paper from carolina has a general contact insecticide on the paper. Its primary use on the box says it's for roaches, silverfish, etc. but I think it provides some barrier rather than none. The other mite paper that I have seen is made with miticide, but I havent used it.

Joe Nickerson · #9 (**permalink**) 06-24-2005, 02:34 AM

Hey up there in Peterborough.

The website below has a method for ridding your culture of mites that I have tried and has worked well. I used the Non Chemical Method at the bottom. Good info on this as well.

I have found that shelf paper to work good also. Black Jungle has it in blue, and you can see the wonderful little DEAD mites on it.

I have finally brought myself to through cultures out after 30 days and I keep the new cultures and my starter cultures seperate from the ones that I use to feed the frogs

http://www.fruitflies.net/mites.htm