New paludarium

[jon]

I've frequented this forum as a lurker for quite some time. I kept some azureus and imis a few years ago with no problems, so I think I understand the basics of PDF culture. I'm well versed in orchid culture, and I have over a thousand species of the family. I had some trouble deciding on how to spend the money I received for Christmas, and I decided it should go toward one of two things: a Nanocube for a reef tank, or an aquarium/stand for a paludarium.

I finally decided to go with a paludarium because a reef tank would be too difficult to move, should I decide to go somewhere in the next couple of years. Petsmart has two choices for aquarium/stand combos that I'm interested in. Based on price (including stand), I think I hafta go with one or the other: a 47g column (20"w x 18"d x 30"h) or a 56g column (30"w x 18"d x 24"h). It essentially comes down to width and the $32 difference. I'm leaning toward the 47 because of the smaller footprint of the whole thing, but the 56 is a good idea because of the opposite: more floorspace and a more spread out water feature. Plus, the 56 will give me more wall space for plants, and the lights won't have to be as intense because they won't be as far from the floor. I have a few 64W fluorescent light fixtures that I can remount into a single hood/canopy for either of the tanks. The 47 will be more mobile if/when I move. It's also more conducive to ventrimaculatas. Advice here is that I choose the frog and then choose the tank. The size of the two tanks means that imitators are out of the question (because of same-sex aggression), and I want some easyish thumbs.

What other aspects should I consider? I have an RO system and an established FW fish tank. My house ranges from lows of 60 in the winter to highs of 90 in the summer (though a ghetto-ized evap cooler is easy to make, and I suspect I could drop the summer temps to 80-85). I have experience culturing flightless melanogaster and springtails. I would prefer frogs that are a little more bold (why not start off with the less shy ones???) and do relatively well in groups. I don't care about breeding right now.

Thanks for your considerations.

[azure89]

If your going for a show tank I would get the bigger tank and if your want some nice display frogs that do well in groups and are very active I would look into gettig some D. leucomelas

[frogparty]

Agreed on the leucomelas, but ventrimaculatus are supposed to do great in groups and are also supposed to bebold as well

[jon]

Thanks. I went with the larger one. Still not sure which frogs I'm going to get, though.

Anyhow, about the lighting... I don't think I'm going to use the 64W fluorescents. I'd rather get a set of lights that look decent, and I won't have to build a a hood for them. As mentioned above, the tank is 24" tall and 30" wide. Would a 24" twin-lamp T5 HO be sufficient for plant growth at the bottom? Or should I go with a four-lamp setup? Or would a twin 30" setup be best?

[Groundhog]

At 24" tall, the goal is to provide enough light w/o generating too much heat. Exoterra makes a 20" fixture that accomodates 2 spiral compacts, up to 26 w each. So you could go with two fixtures, that's 4 x 26W = 104W. Try the Exoterra 2.0 bulb; it has a color temp of 6700K (yellow package).

You may find though, that the tank floor is still too dark for higher light plants (e.g., cryptanthus) But if you mount plants, your neos and orchids should be fine at mid tank up to about 2" below the top. And your vines will be fine.

[frogparty]

ge makes a 6500k 26 watt spiral compact flourescent. you can get multipacks much cheaper than a single exo terra bulb.

I do like the exoterra hoods. They make 3 bulb fixtures as well, and the 3 bulb has the option to switch of 1 of the 3 bubs, so in the summer when its warmer you can just run the outer 2 and shut the 3rd off.

I would use 2 of the 3 bulb fixtures for your large tank. I run a single 3 bulb fixture over my 32 hex, hich is 24 inches tall. I used to just rn the 2 bulb model, but the additional light has really increased color of broms, and the growth of the moss and riccia on the viv floor.

You could also look into some nicer HO T-5's for lighting, which also provide you with the ability to run 6500k with less heat generated
If I had it to doover I would just get the T5.
With the spiral cfls I try for 3 watts per gallon.

[jon]

Thanks guys. I've pretty much decided to go with a T5 fixture that has legs to support it off of the tank. I've read that with the support, heat transfer isn't a huge issue. The whole setup is going to be in my living room, so aesthetics are a factor.

[frogparty]

good choice